Turkey: The Phrygian Way

The campaign on the Phrygian Way became the next stage of The World without Visas project, within which Valery Shanin travels only around the countries, visa-free for Russians.

In this campaign, his fellow travelers became Maynur Klementieva from the island of Sakhalin and Sergey Oskolkov from Krasnoyarsk.

In the 13th century, in the territory of Western Anatoly, there was an ancient state — Phrygia. It was founded by Phrygians, who emigrated to Asia Minor from the Balkan Peninsula.

Across the territory of ancient Phrygia, is laid the walking tourist route - the Phrygian Way. Its total length is 506 kilometers. The trail is marked by standard red-white marks. They show the direction and distance to the nearest attractions or village.

Ancient ruins are scattered in a huge territory. On the most part of them, archeological excavations were never carried out. There are neither ticket offices, nor protections, nor any explanatory plaques.

The travelers going on the trail have a unique opportunity, to feel not as tourists going sightseeing, but as pioneers exploring the unknown science of a civilization.

Our travel begins in the capital of ancient Phrygia. The city of Gordion, located on the river bank of Sangaria, is buried under a six-meter layer of the earth. Here is a plain, on which dozens of huge barrows stick out of the earth. Under the biggest of them, the legendary tsar Midas has been buried.
Archeologists have dug out only the fortress located in the central part of the city. Now, restoration works are kept inside the fortress.
On the most part of the territory of the city, archeological excavations weren't carried out yet. Right on the spot where people once lived, Turkish peasants grow cereals and vegetables.
Like thousands of years ago, rams are accompanied by shepherds, astride donkeys, accompanied by huge dogs. But technological progress can also be seen here. As shepherds not only travel with staves and swags, but also electric lamps, gas torches and even IPads connected to the mobile Internet.
13 km south of Sivrihisar, near the Turkish village of Balyhisar, are the ruins of the ancient city of Pessinus. This was a major religious center. It was ruled by priests who worshiped the ancient Anatolian goddess - mother Cybele. Its symbol was a huge piece of meteorite. Later, it was taken to Rome. And there, it was dedicated to the Roman gods and temples.
In the evening, we went to the village of Balykdama. Near here, there is an excellent place for bathing. It is a big rarity on the Phrygian Way. In any case, it is impossible to pass by without bathing ourselves. In the village of Balykdama, there are no shops and even no tea houses. Hospitable locals help out.
In Turkey, there is the same process of globalization as around the world.
Young people go to the city and older people stay in the villages. New houses are rarely built, and old ones gradually collapse.
Near the Turkish village of Yazilikaya, whose name translates as: "The rock with an inscription", ruins of the ancient Phrygian city of Midas Sehri have remained.
On the territory of the ancient city are preserved, carved in the rock tank, foundation of temples, roads fragment and altars. And, what is more important - the special energy and a wonderful view of the vicinities.
After Midas, the landscape changed. The trail passes among the folded hills of volcanic tuff. There are bizarre rock formations. Then begin again, the endless plowed fields.
Doger - a small sleepy town. The most interesting historic building - the caravanserai. But the main attraction - very cheap tea.
In 12 days, from September 8th to September 19th, the travelers have journeyed from the ruins of the ancient city of Gordion, to Doger.