Just drove by the most magical canyon in Norway

I set out from the tiny town of Olderfjord (or is that Russenes?) one fine sunny morning in September, bound for the very far northern town of Kjøllefjord, Norway. After stopping for lunch supplies in Lakselv and having a picnic in Børselvdalen Nature Reserve, I find Silfar Canyon. The river cuts through the rock here; you look down the steep light-colored walls into a gorgeously dark-turquoise section of rapids at the bottom.

After this highlight, the day gets even better. The low sun turns everything orange as the upper part of the Nordkyn Peninsula becomes a striking moonscape of gentle low hills and clear reflective lakes. Stops include the Lebesby Church and its unique Viking ship steeple; the isthmus of Hopseidet, where retreating Nazis killed six fishermen in 1944; and a range of Norway's famous roadside WCs.

The day ends with a nosy and friendly reindeer at our cabin at Davvi Siida, a Sami-run place near Kjøllefjord. Then it's time for a stunning sunset over the fjord waters, and a bonus Northern Lights show. Perfection.

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