2011 + Nissan Murano front engine mount, top engine mount replacement. Easy job with these tips!

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Whats up everybody! Today were gonna be changing some engine mounts on a 2013 Nissan Murano. Fair warning, the mount you just saw is a Dealer part, All the parts stores will give you the rear mount, but they don’t have the front. Theres a lot of tips in this video that will make your life easier so be sure to watch until we get the old mount out. The biggest challenge with this job is space, so we are gonna have to remove a lot of components so we can get access to the engine mount. First the air intake piping and battery need to come out. After that the bolts and cables that hold down the computer need to come out. These wire harness clips can be a pain, just insert a screwdriver into the slot, push in, and pull up at the same time, the harness should come free. Next up we need to remove the bolts that hold the computer bracket in place. It helps to remove the plastic battery tray first. Because these bolts sit under the battery, rust can be an issue, so you may want to spray PB blaster or something like it, and let it soak so they come free.
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Back to the Nissan, in order to remove the metal tray under the battery theres a small sensor of some kind that needs to be unclipped. I don’t know what it does, but we aren’t unhooking anything, just put a screwdriver in it and lift up. Now we can remove the metal tray as well as the computer. The next challenge is taking off the two 10mm bolts that connect to the battery support bracket to the wire harness. Then remove the two bolts that connect the bracket to the frame of the vehicle. Now that’s out of the way we need to remove the cover on the bottom of the vehicle to gain access to the radiator drain. Caution! Warning! You should let the vehicle completely cool off before messing with the coolant system.
And now we have our fist glance at the engine mount and you can see that there isn’t enough room to take it out of the bottom without removing the radiator, that’s why we’ll be taking it out topside. However, we will need to take off a radiator hose, so lets drain some of the coolant out first so we don’t soak anything. Just follow the bottom radiator hose to the passenger side of the vehicle and you should see a small white tube, inside is a phillips head drain screw and we just need to break it loose and let it drain. Keep in mind im not removing it, just backing it out a little. To help the fluid drain faster, remove the radiator cap. Now we’ll remove the top radiator hose. Then tighten up the coolant drain plug and move the fluid out of the way. Taking the hose off the bottom of the radiator cap is a pain, but its worth it for the extra room you will get.
Next just unclip the plugs that connect to the radiator fan assembly and remove the two 10mm bolts on the top at each end. When you begin to slide the fans out, move very slowly and cautiously, the last thing youll want to do is rip through a wiring harness or nick a wire for it to cause problems for you later, this job is hard enough as it is. Alright, now that we have full access to that front mount we need to chock the wheels. Theres only one vaccum line that attaches to the mount. It’s a solid metal line with three bolts holding it on, so just undo them and move the line out of the way. You’ll need a small block of wood to go between the jack and the transmission pan so have that ready. You’ll notice im using a sissor jack here and I prefer you do the same. With this jack we can fine tune the position up and down, and we won’t have to worry about it loosing pressure like a hydraulic jack might. Remember, we aren’t lifting the vehicle here, we just want a little pressure so that the engine holds the same position when we remove the mount.
Now for the most important tip! You need a 24” extension, a universal joint, a 6” extension, and a swivel socket. This makes it very simple to remove that rear bolt on the engine mount.