The Zion Narrows - Backpacking Top Down

The Zion Narrows - Backpacking Top Down

We've had this trip on the list for a long time. Last year, it was cancelled due to COVID, but I got permits again. The weather was right, the flow in the Virgin river was good. Only problem was the Cyanobacteria bloom....but it was still doable. So that was it. Time to finally hike the Zion Narrows.

We loaded up the car and were on our way to Zion National Park. The Narrows is one of the most sought after hikes in the world, and we had premier tickets. If you want to hike the Zion Narrows, you need to take a lot into account; the flow of the Virgin River, weather (rain and temperature), cyanobacteria blooms....yeah. It's complicated.

But it's worth it.

We got a shuttle from the Zion Visitor Center to Chamberlain's Ranch and started our hike. Everyone talks about the Zion Narrows, but no one talks about the 15 miles or so that it takes to get to them from Chamberlain's Ranch.

Shuttle service used - Red Rock Shuttles:

https://redrockshuttle.com/

Those miles are amazing. The canyon starts in the pines. It was 100 degrees in the valley, but 40 or so where we started. The river is half the flow that it is in the Narrows proper, and the scenery is completely different. But no less amazing. And there is no one there. We started with a few other groups doing top down, and quickly we all got dispersed and were on our own hikes. You get lost in the beauty, the scope of the canyon and the mileage you have to cover.

And it is amazing.

Eventually, you come to a waterfall. Bypass that by going to your left (looking down canyon), and you are on your way again. Not too long after, you experience some narrows. Not the grey rock that is associated with the Zion Narrows. These are more red and not as tall, but still incredible.

Eventually, you come across the first campsite, at the confluence with Deep Creek. Here, things get more complicated. The waterflow doubles, and the trails on the bank starts to disappear. It is beautiful, but also slow. Your pace gets cut in half.

The last two miles to campsite 12 took nearly 2 hours. We were making almost 2 mph before then. But finally, we were at camp. I got water at Big Springs and we relaxed for the rest of the night.

The next day, it was time for the actual Zion Narrows. The canyon walls got taller and closer together and the trails on the banks were less and less. For about a mile, we experienced solitude and the most amazing canyon in recent recollection.

Then the day hikers appeared. First, it was a few. Then more. Then more. And more, and more and more. The canyon was choked with people. Our wilderness experience changed from admiring the beauty of Zion to just wanting to get to our car.

And, after a couple miles, we were on the shuttle and heading back to the visitor center.

The Zion Narrows top down was an experience I will always remember. One of the most, if not the most beautiful canyons I have ever seen. Will we do it again? Almost certainly. It isn't perfect given the crowds at the end, but that is the price you pay in our national parks.


Music by Epidemic Sound:

Changing Outlook - Trevor Kowalski
Morning Hike - Lindsey Abraham
Time (Don't Move) - Fleurs Douces
Sitting This One Out - White Bones
Forest Canvas - Elm Lake
Red Guitar, Purple Haze - Roy Williams
Waterslide - Splasher!

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Filmed on:

GoPro Hero 9 Black:

https://amzn.to/2JDd7YZ