Route Napoleon Tour - Day 3 Dijon to Grenoble

Ride report.
Day 3 Route Napoleon Tour.

335km
France.

Today was 7 1/2 hours in the saddle, but really working it. What a laugh!

After a disappointing breakfast due to there being no bacon, we departed Nuits-Saint-Georges and headed south.

Our route took us through acres of wheat fields crossing canals with barges trundling along. The roads again was smooth, gently winding and fast.

After refuelling our bikes we stopped in Pierre de Bresse to refuel ourselves at a local bar. It was time for elevenses! Again the hospitality was endearing with the little old lady allowing us to rearrange her outside furniture and treating us like honoured guests. But same as anywhere in the world, we had the jolly daytime drinkers constantly being inquisitive.

We continued south and then when we were parallel with Geneva, we headed east. As the land became less flat, the vineyards started on the hills and we could see higher peaks on horizon.

It seemed like all of a sudden we were faced with the steep hills and the riding style changed significantly. Our gentle fast paced curves were replaced with tight switchbacks through dense forests, with bits of rock landslide spilling onto the road. On our traverse up the D44, we met one vehicle coming down hill. What a fantastic road.

Once on the plateau, it levelled out again as we continued heading south, this time looking down on the plains below.

After cresting yet another Hill the valley opened up in front of us. Steep granite rock faces with sheer drops. The odd trickle of a waterfall which in winter would be an amazing sight, cascading from the plateau down into the valley below.

We headed down to the river L’Ain where we were presented with a spectacular viaduct. The road runs through the archways below whilst a single track rail line runs above. After a quick photo stop we crossed the viaduct and headed along the other side of the river.

The lunch plan was a family run creperie by the river. I didn’t realise that on a Sunday afternoon the place would be heaving but madame managed to squeeze us in on the terrace. Savoury crepes for lunch was quite a treat. Local ham, Comte cheese, local flavoursome tomatoes and an egg, folded into a neat pancake.

We continued south and when parallel with Aix-le-Bains, we looked to turn east again. As we were winding away along the valley floor, all I could see to the left was a towering cliff of rock and I knew that at some point we had to get up and over this.

The switch back route up the hill turned out to be a less than single track road with a sheer drop on one side. No barriers, no road markings, no nothing. Just a cycling sign post indicating that Col de Ballon was at the top. At 929 meters above sea level, this was our first proper Col. (A Col is a mountain pass).

The switch backs down the other side were more manageable but the views were breathtaking.

Once down on the other side, we were in need of refreshment. I spied the most un cultural and despised sign I know of in France, and five minutes later we were in McDonald’s. Caffeinated and McFlurryed up we realised there was still another two hours left and we were flagging. The group decision was to let Google take us the quickest route. Unfortunately it was rush-hour on a Sunday and the traffic was hard going, crossing the massive Rhine river several times. An hour in traffic with no filtering and police on every other roundabout, is not fun.

We arrived at our hotel on the outskirts of Grenoble, where they have beer in proper pint glasses, a swimming pool and a restaurant. Annoyingly, the pool is closed. The gym is open though, but surprisingly no one has that inclination 🤣.

We’re sitting here looking at the Haute Alps, trying to visualise our route to the top tomorrow.

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