DIY DSLR Steadicam "Silver Flyer" Stabilizer

A step by step tutorial on building your own steadicam for a fraction of the price of a professional steadicam.

Parts List:
(2) 3/4" 90 degree elbow metal tubing
(3) 3/4" metal tubing couplers
(1) 1/4" Hex screw
(1) 1/4" Nut
(1) 5/16" x 1" Fully threaded hex screw
(1) 5/16” Nut
(2) 1/4” x 3” Hex screw
(2) 1/4” Nut
(~50) 1/4” center x 1 1/4” diameter fender washer
(2) 1/4” Butterfly nuts
(1-3) Standard bearings (for how much it turns)
(1) 1/2” PVC pipe 5-8 inches long
(1) 1/2” PVC pipe male and female adapter (2 parts)
(1) Traxxas 1651 set (3 pieces per set): http://amzn.to/1ekxS60
(1) Macro Slider : http://amzn.to/1T7W8HJ
(1) Quick release plate: http://amzn.to/1Hyiro5

-Drilling (in order)
Initial holes are drilled through the front and back of the pipe (must be centered). The hole closest to the pipe ending will be widened to 1/4" through both sides. The farthest hole will be widened to 1/2" on the bottom, and 3/8" on the top.
The couplers will have a hole drilled through the back after the initial hole it came with has been widened with a 1/4" bit. Do this for both the top and bottom couplers.
NOTE: Do not drill until you are certain you are using the correct sized bit in the correct location. Use the video as a reference.

-Balancing
After your steadicam has been created, balancing it will be the toughest part. the bigger the camera, the more weight you will need on the bottom. Once you have it mostly balanced except for small tilts and leans, you're ready for final tweaks. You can tweak which way your steadicam tilts by rotating the bottom coupler to counteract the weight of the camera. Magnets are an optional weight that are extremely useful as they can be placed anywhere. If you find your steadicam wont balance no matter what, add more weights.
The amount of bearings is based purely off of preference. After the initial bearing, add one or more above that one to reduce the turning sensitivity.

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