The History of the Rolex Submariner

The History of the Rolex Submariner

Brush up on your watch history with our latest series of videos that tell you the stories behind the brands you love.

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Transcript:
The Rolex Submariner: Often copied. Never matched.

The Submariner was first released in 1953, following a challenge to Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf to create a dive watch that was not only functional but also appropriate for evening and dress wear. What came from that conversation was the Submariner—a tool watch with a rotating bezel, luminous markers, and a less-sporty design that could transition into any situation.

To really put the Submariner to the test, the company recruited Auguste Piccard, the Swiss physicist, and explorer. In 1953, Piccard, in his Bathyscaphe deep-diving submarine, went down over 3100 meters in the ocean. A specially-created Rolex Submariner descended with him attached to the ship’s hull. When the Bathyscaphe came out of the water, the watch was still working properly.

Part of the magic of the Submariner is in its design, which has only seen minor adjustments since its initial release. The first reference numbers were the 6204 and 6205, which were produced and retired before the end of the 1950’s. These models, which are the foundation of the Submariner line, nonetheless bear some differences in appearance, including inconsistent branding of the ‘Submariner’ name on their dials, pencil-shaped hands, and a lack of crown guards.

Notable versions of the Submariner include the 6e538, the original James Bond that debuted on-screen in 1962, and the 5512, which standardized the watch’s oversized crown and added the crown guards that protect it. The 5512 was introduced in 1959 and remained in production until 1978—it was also the watch of choice for actor Steve McQueen, a cultural icon known for his love of cars and watches alike.

In the late 1960’s, the reference 1680 solidified the Submariner as something much more than a diver’s tool with the addition of a date function and accompanying cyclops magnifier. That decade also saw Rolex replace its Radium paint with the safer and less volatile tritium for use on its dials. As a functional watch with mass-market appeal, later Submariners saw the introduction of two-tone gold and steel and all-gold models.

Today’s Submariners are based off either the 14060 or 16610, produced from the late 1980’s through the 90’s and on into the 21st century. In 2003, Rolex celebrated the Submariner's 50th anniversary with the reference 16610 LV, a Submariner-Date with a unique green bezel and Maxi dial whose production ended in 2010. Cosmetically, newer Submariners have Rolex’s Cerachrom bezels and come in a variety of materials.

Today, the Submariner is Rolex’s most recognized model, and over 60 years after it was first introduced, the Submariner continues to set the standard.

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