How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a Honda GC160 Engine

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In this video I will be showing you how to replace the fuel pump on a Honda 5hp engine, this is a GC160 engine. I will do a quick carburetor clean as well while it’s apart.

While it still runs, the pump does leak out of the vent hole when running which would mean the diagram inside is most likely broken. The fuel pump can also prevent the engine from running.

First is removing the fuel tank, this is held on with two 10mm bolts and a 10mm nut on the bottom of the tank.

Then pull off the tank.

To remove the air box, along with brackets and carburetor, this is help with two more 10mm bolts.

Pull off the air box.

The gaskets will most likely be stuck in place, so you’ll need a little force to break down the assembly. There are gaskets on each side of the carburetor and mounting plates.

Remove the governor linkage and spring.

Remove the crankcase vacuum line for the fuel pump.

Remove the tank fuel line. Using pliers, pull off the line clamp and you maybe required to twist the line with pliers as they can stick over time.

For removing the fuel pump, it’s held on with two phillips screws. The removal is easier with everything apart as these screws maybe seized and there’s not enough room with everything in place.

Once that pump is loose, finally is disconnecting the last fuel line from the pump that feeds the carburetor. There is a small hose clamp, slide this over the connection using pliers.

The line was stuck, I used pliers to help break it free.

I won’t cover it fully in this video but I did give a quick to the carburetor as it’s never been cleaned on this generator since it was purchased new and it’s about 20 years old. It was fully dissembled, I did use some cleaner along with compressed air.

After that, it then gets reassembled.

The new fuel pump is installed, this was purchased from a local small engines dealer. I bought a reputable replacement as some of the cheaper versions can have a premature failure.

The one line was showing some signs of deterioration. While these are molded lines, I just used a piece of generic clear fuel line as a replacement. It was cut to size, a little longer to have a more gentle curve so it doesn’t become kinked and prevent fuel from getting to the carburetor. The hose clamps are reinstalled the carburetor is put back in place on the bracket.

The engine gets a quick clean around the carburetor too as it’s easier to do when components are partly disassembled.

The governor linkage and spring get reattached. When working on small engines, especially if this is something new to you, it’s always a good idea to use your phone to take photos along the way. Certain components may have a specific orientation or location so it’s important to get this right during reassembly.

Reinstall the heat shield plate between the carburetor and engine. Replace any gaskets as needed too.

To hold everything in place, I put the bolts in by hand before getting the air box.

Finally install the air box.

Then tighten the bolts when everything is in place for the air box. Always check over the linkage to ensure it’s not catching up on something.

Finally is the fuel tank along with the 3 10mm bolts.

Once done, start the engine and ensure it’s running well. There are no fuel/air adjustment needles on this particular engine, it only has an idle speed screw. Let the engine warm up and adjust that speed if needed.

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