TASTING HEI CHA: Shu Pu'er vs. Liubao

Tasting hei cha of two different sorts: shu pu'er and a Liubao hei cha. Pu'er (or puerh) is becoming more and more popular, and many tea drinkers' first post-fermented tea experience is with the dark and earthy shu pu. But how does it compare to some other post-fermented teas which are rarer in the West? In this video, Gabriele compares two shu (also shou) pu'er with Liubao Hei Cha, including the colour and appearance of the leaves, the colour of the tea liquor, the intensity and quality of the flavour, and the Cha Qi, the 'energy' felt by drinking the tea.

Terminology:
'Hei cha' literally translates to 'black tea'. Whereas most western languages refer to dark, fully-oxidized tea leaves as 'black tea' (or the equivalent), Chinese considers these 'hong cha', or 'red tea', for the colour of the tea liquor, and 'hei cha' represents a completely separate category. Consequently, there are different strategies used to describe this category in languages which already have the term 'black tea'—for example, in English, it is variously referred to as: 'dark tea', 'post-fermented tea', or sometimes simply the Pinyin 'hei cha'.

Teas in video:
Huifeng Huchang 2007, 2012, 2017 from Xin Man E, Bulang
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An unusual mixing of leaves from three vintages (2007, 2012, 2017), this Shu Pu'er has all of the full-bodied clout that regular Shupu drinkers seek. This laid-back robustness is rounded out by toasted grain, coconut and a liquorice sweetness in the finish. A good choice both for acclimatising new shu drinkers to real post-fermented flavours and experienced connesseurs looking for an intense Shupu.

Gengyun Zhongyue 2006 from Mengku, Lincang
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While unmistakably a shupu, this cake from 2006 displays a delightful lightness in contrast to the normally somber flavours associated with the category. Mellow and warm, notes of horseradish, butter and whole-grain bread play along the tongue; an earthy base note evokes a summery soup with root vegetables, or perhaps a gratin dauphinois. The experienced Pu'er drinker will appreciate, however, that this is one Shu that suggests you leave the root cellar and head to the beach.

Liubao Hei Cha 2009, from Guangxi
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A precursor to more well-known Hei Cha like Pu'er, its character will be familiar to—and likely enjoyed by—connoisseurs of Shu Pu; indeed, the novel processing method for the latter was based on the traditional process for Liu Bao. The similar results speak for themselves: flavourful, full-bodied liquor with notes of wood, plum, and red currant. And yet, it is, if anything, lighter but more mouth-filling, with a texture one can almost bite into, and could serve alongside hearty biscuits or greasy food, or practically as a meal unto itself.

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