Smocking Pleating Demystified! Marking and gathering methods explained- 16th C Smocked Shirt Series

Smocking, or Pleatwork embroidery was a popular method of embellishment for shirts of the 16th Century German Renaissance. Pleating is an important step in creating the look. But there are many methods for creating the pleats. In this video we explore different marking and pleating techniques, so that you can decide which one is best for you! We look at different methods for marking dots, including "eyeballing it", hand marking, and iron on dots. We also cover the differences of the "in and out" and "pick up dot method" and when its best to use each one. And we also cover the a pleater machine.


Smocking Dots and Linen thread are available for purchase in our Thimble and Plume Etsy shop at https://www.etsy.com/shop/ThimbleAndP...

0:00 Intro
1:06 Background
02:03 Pleating by Eye
02:56 Marking Pleats
6:00 Iron On Dots
6:41 Gathering Stitches
9:08 Gathering the fabric
10:12 Smocking Pleater

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Photo by Mathew Schwartz on Unsplash https://unsplash.com/@cadop?utm_sourc...
Childs smock By Auckland Museum, CC BY 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index...
Porträt eines jungen Mannes Ambrosius Holbein, 1518 CC By Ambrosius Holbein - The Yorck Project (2002) 10.000 Meisterwerke der Malerei (DVD-ROM), distributed by DIRECTMEDIA Publishing GmbH. ISBN: 3936122202., Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index...
Pink dress CC By Auckland Museum, CC BY 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index...
Smock sleeve from Met Museum in PD https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collect...
The Alb of St Hugo, from Valsainte, Switzerland from Ornements sacrés de saint Hugues, évêque de Grenoble, in Fribourg Artistique, 1906
Anna Meyer By Hns Holbein 1531 By Hans Holbein - http://www.wga.hu/art/h/holbein/hans_..., Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index...
Sture shirt https://digitaltmuseum.se/01101397678...

How to pleat a shirt in the 15th century. In: Archaeological Textiles Review 54, 2012, 79-91 By Beatrix Nutz

https://www.academia.edu/3213526/How_...
Traditional Smock CC By Anonymous - http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EKfxSdSVD9c..., Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index...
Trachtenbuch des Augsburgers Matthäus Schwarz (1497–1574), Landesbibliothek Hannover pg 68 PD https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index...
Portrait of Mary of Hungary (1505–1558), by Hans Krell By Hans Krell - wpen:, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index...
Matthäus Schwarz by Hans Maler zu Schwaz 1526 By Hans Maler zu Schwaz - http://www.terminartors.com/artworkpr..., Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index...
Libro quarto. De rechami per elquale se impara in diuersi modi lordine e il modo de recamare…Opera noua, page 2, 1532. Metropolitan Museum PD
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Portrait of a Member of the Weiss Family of Augsburg by Hans Holbein 1522" By Holbein the Elder, Hans - https://sammlung.staedelmuseum.de/de/..., CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index...