What Data Says About Finger Training

In this video we're looking at what the data suggests climbers of different levels of experience should expect from their finger training.

Many thanks again for watching. Look out for more videos coming soon and follow me on Instagram @process.physio for additional content.

The references for the graphs used in the video are:

1) A Finger in the Game: Sport-Specific Finger Strength
Training and Onset of Injury. Sjoman et al. 2023. Wilderness and Environmental Medicine

2) Risk factors and injury prevention strategies for overuse injuries in adult climbers: a systematic review. Quarmby et al. 2023. https://doi.org/10.3389/fspor.2023.12...

3) A representation of a graph compiled by Tyler Nelson (Camp 4 Human Performance) showing the relationship between finger strength and injury risk.

Many, many, more studies were used. What I present here is my synthesis of the literature.

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