Drinking History: Guiseppe Mascarello 1978 Barbaresco...Not Made Anymore!

Descripton Generated by Copilot AI

The 1978 Barbaresco Bernardotti from Guiseppe Mascarello is a compelling snapshot of traditional Piedmont winemaking, offering a sensory journey that is both rustic and refined. On the nose, it opens with a medley of cherries, worn leather, and a touch of oxidative port-like sweetness. These aromas are layered with unmistakable Brettanomyces character—barnyard, medicinal, and earthy notes—that lend the wine a wild, old-world charm. While brett is often divisive among wine lovers, here it adds depth and authenticity to the experience.

The palate begins with tangy cherry fruit, quickly evolving into darker, more brooding flavors of forest floor, tar, and mushrooms. The wine’s evolution in the glass is a testament to its age and complexity, revealing tertiary notes that speak to its long bottle maturation. The texture is lean but persistent, with acidity that keeps the wine vibrant despite its decades of age.

This bottle is not just a wine—it’s a historical artifact from one of Piedmont’s most storied producers. The Mascarello family has been crafting wine since 1881, when Giuseppe Mascarello founded the estate in Monteforte d’Alba. Over the generations, the winery has remained fiercely committed to traditional methods, with Mauro Mascarello—Giuseppe’s great-grandson—taking the reins in the 1960s. Mauro is credited with reviving the single-vineyard concept for Barolo, particularly with the Monprivato cru, which he began bottling separately in 1970 after a fifty-year hiatus.

While Monprivato is the flagship Barolo, the Bernardotti vineyard in Treiso offers a glimpse into the family’s Barbaresco expression. Though less heralded than its Barolo counterpart, Bernardotti showcases the finesse and aromatic lift typical of Treiso’s terroir. The wine’s aging regimen—likely involving large Slavonian oak barrels—further underscores the Mascarellos’ dedication to slow, oxidative maturation, allowing the Nebbiolo grape to fully express its potential.

In sum, the 1978 Barbaresco Bernardotti is a wine for purists and historians alike. It’s not polished or modern, but it’s deeply evocative of a time and place where winemaking was more art than science. For those who appreciate the untamed beauty of aged Nebbiolo, this bottle is a rare and rewarding experience.

My added notes: I don't beleive Mascarello produces this wine anymore and I believe this vineyard site was sold to Ceretto.

For more information about this winery, please visit their website at https://www.mascarello1881.com/en/