Wood & Epoxy Resin Wall Clock

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That sounds like a beautiful project! Wood and epoxy resin clocks are highly customizable and can range from modern and minimalist to rustic and complex.

Here is a guide outlining the key steps and considerations for creating a striking Wood and Epoxy Resin Wall Clock.

1. Design & Preparation
Choosing Your Wood and Resin Style
The wood and how you arrange it will define the final aesthetic.

River/Channel Clock: This is the most popular style. You use two or more pieces of wood with a gap (the "river") down the middle, which is then filled with colored resin.

Segmented Inlay Clock: Smaller pieces of wood (e.g., geometric shapes or blocks) are placed in the mold, and the resin fills the space around them.

Live Edge: Use wood with natural, bark-on edges facing inward toward the resin for a rugged look.

Stabilized Wood: Fully submerging a porous or spalted piece of wood in clear resin can preserve its fragile structure.

Wood Preparation
Cut and Size: Cut your wood pieces to the final dimensions of the clock face. The thickness should be sufficient to allow for the depth of the clock mechanism later (usually 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch thick).

Sanding: Sand the edges and faces of the wood that will be in contact with the resin to at least 120 grit. This helps the resin adhere well.

Sealing (Crucial): Because wood is porous, it can release air bubbles into the resin. Seal all wood surfaces that will touch the resin using a thin coat of clear epoxy resin, shellac, or polyurethane. Let this seal coat cure completely.

2. Creating the Mold
You will need a mold that perfectly contains the resin mixture.

Mold Base: Use a piece of melamine, plywood covered in packing tape, or HDPE plastic. Resin will not stick to these surfaces.

Molding Walls: Build walls around your base using melamine strips or clean lumber, ensuring the walls are taller than your wood pieces.

Sealing the Mold: Apply a thick bead of silicone caulk to all interior seams and corners where the walls meet the base and where the wood meets the walls. This is the single most important step for preventing leaks. Let the caulk fully dry.

Position the Wood: Place your sealed wood pieces inside the mold, spaced according to your design, and secure them with clamps or small screws on the underside of the mold if necessary.

3. Mixing and Pouring the Resin
Resin Choice
Use a Casting Resin (Deep Pour) if your clock is over 1/2 inch thick, as this cures slowly and manages heat build-up better. Use a Coating Resin if the pour is shallow (less than 1/4 inch).

Mixing
Measure Accurately: Epoxy resin must be measured precisely by volume or weight, according to the manufacturer's directions (e.g., 2:1 ratio). Inaccurate measurements will result in a soft or sticky cure.

Color: Mix your pigment (mica powder, liquid resin dye, or metallic flakes) into the pre-measured Part A (resin) before combining it with Part B (hardener).

Combine: Mix Part A and Part B thoroughly but slowly for the recommended time (usually 3–5 minutes), scraping the sides and bottom of the container.

Pouring and Curing
Pour Slowly: Pour the mixed resin into the void, ensuring the surface is level and the resin covers the wood uniformly.

Pop Bubbles: Use a heat gun or small torch held several inches above the resin surface to pop any air bubbles that rise. Wave the heat quickly; do not hold it in one spot. Repeat this every 15 minutes for the first hour.

Cure: Allow the resin to cure fully, usually 48 to 72 hours, before demolding.

4. Finishing and Assembly
Planing and Sanding
Demold: Once cured, remove the clock blank from the mold.

Level: If the surface is uneven, use a router sled or send it through a thickness planer to flatten both the resin and wood until they are perfectly flush.

Final Sanding: Sand the entire surface, progressing through grits from 120, 180, 220, 320, and finally up to 400 or 600 grit for a glass-smooth finish.






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