Full Movie: The Psychology of Big Wave Surfing - Greg Long, Gary Linden, Todd Glaser [HD]

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Sine Qua Non: The Psychology of Big Wave Surfing provides an intimate portrait of the mentality, risks, and lifestyle associated with pursuing monstrous waves around the planet through the eyes of the world’s most decorated big wave surfer, Greg Long. The film’s title, Sine Qua Non, is a Latin phrase, which, roughly translated, means, “Without which, [there is] nothing.” Greg Long presents the viewer with a first-hand account of the life-threatening pursuit of big waves as well a look at the horrific wipeouts involved, including one that nearly ended his life. Going deeper, Long admits his pursuit could be viewed as selfish, especially when surrounded by a very close-knit family that is concerned first and foremost about his safety.

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