ROCKIES LIMESTONE PITON CRAFT -- Rock Climbing Mentor Series

This video is a piton placing tutorial and practical lecture demonstration on how to sleuth out and make piton placements in Canadian Rockies Alpine Limestone. On the big alpine limestone walls of the Canadian Rockies, there are often few bolts that have ever been placed -- and often there are none. Clean gear like passive gear like nuts, hexes, wired stoppers, and spring loaded camming devices should be used and placed first when available. Any seasoned Rockies Climber will tell you that for the big alpine limestone faces you must bring a good selection of pitons as, often, there will be no other protection available. And, secure anchors can be VERY difficult to achieve, at times. The tactics in this video can and should be used for leading, belay anchor making as well as for any aid that you may have to do. The outcrop used in this video is a road cut, previously blasted and disturbed by the canal and road construction at Whiteman Gap above Canmore. One should use outcrops such as this to practice piton-craft so as to not damage rock that will otherwise, or might otherwise become a free climbing crag. That said, the rock in this video is very indicative of the the north walls in the Bow Valley, or on the other big alpine limestone faces in the Canadian Rockies.

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