【阿丙】在川南小县城，感受一种怀旧的生活｜四川 乐山 犍为 Step into a Nostalgic Life in Southern Sichuan. Qianwei County, China.

犍为县，隶属四川省乐山市，位于四川省的南部，岷江下游。犍为作为地名的出现，始于西汉。汉建元六年（前135年），置犍为郡，地跨今川、渝、黔、滇、桂5省。隋开皇三年（583年），建犍为县，几经更替，犍为名沿用至今已有2150余年的历史。
相较于热门的乐山市区，犍为属于比较小众的旅游目的地。即便是到犍为旅游，大多数人也都是到罗城古镇、嘉阳小火车等，在县城游玩的人相对较少。但在我看来，犍为还是非常值得一逛的。这是一座历史感与松弛感融合得很好的小城，还保留了一些川南县城的古韵。县城有一座始建于北宋、重建于明代洪武四年（1371年）的文庙，它的规模居全国第四、四川第一。而县人民政府大门的钟楼，始建于明洪武四年（公元1371年），明清时期为县衙门，1946年改建为老县城。犍为的老城区，就主要集中在这两个地方附近。
不大的小城，逛起来没有什么压力，街道没那么宽，所以没有很强的距离感。随处可见的具有年代感的建筑，一下子就把人拉到一种怀旧的思绪。而那些聚集在二中附近、开了几十年的地道美食，不需要走很远就能吃上，这也让人感觉特别满足。待吃饱喝足后，便可顺着街道溜达到岷江边，望着江水，等待日落。夏日的夜色悄悄降临，江边的人也多了起来，吹着带了丝丝凉意的江风，时间就这样静静过去了。

Qianwei County, under the administration of Leshan City in southern Sichuan Province, is situated in the lower reaches of the Min River. The name "Qianwei" first appeared during the Western Han Dynasty. In 135 BC, the Qianwei Prefecture was established, spanning parts of what are now Sichuan, Chongqing, Guizhou, Yunnan, and Guangxi. In 583 AD, during the Sui Dynasty, Qianwei County was formally established. Through various administrative changes, the name has been preserved for over 2,150 years.

Compared to the popular urban area of Leshan, Qianwei remains a relatively off-the-beaten-path destination. Even among those who visit the county, most head to Luocheng Ancient Town or the Jiayang Steam Train, while few spend time in the county seat itself. Yet, in my view, Qianwei is well worth exploring. It’s a small town where a deep sense of history blends effortlessly with a laid-back atmosphere, retaining much of the classic charm of a southern Sichuan county.

The county boasts a Confucian Temple originally built during the Northern Song Dynasty and rebuilt in 1371 during the Ming Dynasty. It ranks as the fourth largest of its kind in China and the largest in Sichuan. The clock tower at the entrance of the People’s Government compound, originally built in 1371, served as the county office during the Ming and Qing dynasties and was later converted into the old county hall in 1946. The old town of Qianwei is largely concentrated around these two historic sites.

The compact layout makes the town easy to explore—its narrow streets feel intimate rather than imposing. Everywhere, time-worn buildings evoke a strong sense of nostalgia. Around No. 2 Middle School, decades-old authentic eateries are clustered closely, allowing visitors to enjoy local flavors without walking far—a deeply satisfying experience. After a good meal, one can stroll down to the Min River, watch the water, and wait for the sunset. As a summer evening gently falls, more people gather by the river, enjoying the cool breeze as time slips quietly by.