All About Leather!

Explore the art of leather in perfumery — from smoky birch tar and castoreum to modern suede accords and synthetic replacements. We’ll smell through classic materials, compare vintage vs. modern leathers, and finish by building a woody, leathery, masculine fragrance from scratch.

In this episode, we dive deep into leather notes and accords in perfumery — from classic Russian leather and birch tar to modern suede bases and synthetic replacements like Isobutyl Quinoline and Suederal. You’ll learn what gives leather its smoky, animalic character, how tanning processes shaped its scent, and how perfumers interpret that aroma today.

We’ll smell through materials like Castoreum, Birch Tar, Cade, Styrax, Saffraleine, Saffranal, and even modern leather bases from Symrise and IFF, then finish by building a woody, leathery, masculine fragrance from scratch — balancing patchouli, ambers, musks, and smoky notes.

Whether you’re a beginner perfumer, a fragrance enthusiast, or just curious how leather is recreated without real leather, this is your full-length guide to crafting a sophisticated leather accord.

👃 Watch till the end to see how the final leather fragrance comes together — and how a few drops of birch tar or castoreum can transform a composition.

🧴 Shop Ryan Parfums fragrances: www.RyanParfums.com
📸 Follow on Instagram: www.instagram.com/ryanparfums/

0:00 – Intro & Overview
0:49 – Russian Leather Origins
3:33 – Modern Leather Smells
6:36 – Core Leather Molecules
7:31 – Castoreum & Replacers
10:37 – Smoky Leather Notes
15:56 – Spicy & Resinous Accents
20:00 – Leather Bases & Quinolines
24:01 – Phenolic Leather Tones
28:34 – Setting Up the Formula
30:11 – Building the Base
38:00 – Constructing the Leather Accord
48:21 – Musks, Woods & Florals
1:03:11 – Final Tweaks & Skin Test
1:10:04 – Wrap-Up & Brand Updates

Formula:
252 - Patchouli
152 - Kephalis
100 - Benzyl Salicylate
100 - Ethylene Brassylate
100 - ISO E Super
100 - Vertofix
50 - Hedione
25 - Sandalore
20 - Cedarwood Atlas
13 - Labdanum Res
10 - Bergamot
10 - Castoreum Abs
10 - Iralia
10 - Linalool
10 - Styrax Abs
5 - Ambrettolide
5 - Bacdanol
5 - Birch Tar 10%
5 - Cetalox
5 - Jasmin Specialty (F)
5 - Veramoss
2 - Cashmeran
2 - Pink Pepper
2 - Vanillin
1 - Cistus
1 - Pyralone

🌹🪵🍋RAW MATERIALS SUPPLIERS
https://fraterworks.com
https://perfumersupplyhouse.com
https://shop.perfumersapprentice.com
https://www.harrisonjoseph.co.uk
https://www.perfumersworld.com
https://pellwall.com/en-us
https://www.edenbotanicals.com
https://www.libertynatural.com
https://theperfumery.com

⚖️🔧MY EQUIPMENT
10ml Amber Bottles - https://amzn.to/40ucbuI
Scent Strips - https://amzn.to/40rlb41
1ml Pipettes- https://amzn.to/4f1pHdT
Lab Scale - Small Batch - https://amzn.to/4hpqF5n
Lab Scale - Large Batch - https://amzn.to/4fvajq8
Magnetic Stirrer / Hot Plate - https://amzn.to/3YxTbch
50ml Beakers - https://amzn.to/4f8I9Bq
100ml Beakers - https://amzn.to/48vXgCe
Beaker Set - https://amzn.to/48v4CWT
Erlenmeyer Flask - https://amzn.to/3AsnPvD
Crimpers etc - https://bottlecrimptools.com
Perfume Bottles - https://www.stocksmetic.com/us/
Metallic Labels - https://unikportrait.com

Rode Microphone - https://amzn.to/4ee3B6N
Camera 1 - https://amzn.to/3JhnaBm
Camera 2 - https://amzn.to/3Tyddl1

#Perfumer #Perfumery #IndependentPerfumer #Perfume #Cologne #FragComm #DIYPerfume #NichePerfume #NichePerfumer #PerfumeMaking #fragrancecommunity #VintageFragrance #DiscontinuedFragrance #MensFragrance #WoodySpicy #GucciEnvy #DesignerFragrance #FragranceReview #MensFragrance #WomensFragrance #LuxuryLifestyle #DesignerFragrance #sotd #FragranceCreation #FragranceFormula #IndieFragrance #FragHead #ScentOfTheDay
#RyanParfums #IndieFragrance #NichePerfume #MensStyle #LuxuryLifestyle #leather