Prograde Autobelay - first use , test , review July 2023 Kempten Germany

First use of the "Prograde" autobelay in Kempten Germany.
(just added english subtitles )
(rein deutsche Version hier    • Prograde Vorstieg Sicherungsautomat - Erst...   )

1. What is a Prograde autobelay ?
2. How was our experience with the device ?
3. Official Prograde description

1) Prograde is a full automatic LEAD belaying machine, developed in Italy.

2) We accepted the terms of use on the display ( also read the instructions before), tied in with recomended knot (fig.8)
The "partner check" was a little struggle.
The machine basically pulls rope in, to test the climber being tied in.
If you´re close enough to read the display, you´re too close for the check.
Took several tries to figure that out.
You have to STEP BACK for the safety check, and then wait for the machine pulling on you.
Then, when successfully done, activate belay mode and start climbing.

The machine will give out the rope for a clip rather slowly, so don´t hustle pulling fast, just slow and steady pulling and all is fine.

The rest is straight forward, climb, clip (every quickdaw of course), and when you fall, or reach the top, the machine does all the work.
I just forgot to do a real fall, going over the quickdraw and fall a few meters.
Would be interesting, how soft the catch then would be on this autobelay.
I think it´s perhaps not the softest possible, like a human expert belayer can do, but OK*ish like a average belayer usually could do.

One belay machine just got jammed after finishing a climb, and told "rope blocked", no more climbing possible.
No clue what happended.

Anyway a great machine when a partner is missing and reduces the chance of accidents by human belayers, i hope so at least.

When we come back to Kempten (it´s a bothering 2h drive), bit then we´ll do some more extensive falling.

3) (official text from: https://prograde.it/en/prograde/ )
With ProGrade anyone can climb anywhere, as they wish
ProGrade, the only automatic intelligent device that ensures an indoor lead climbing or top roping experience in absolute safety, opens up new horizons for both gyms and climbers. It can be fitted even on overhanging walls, and It is placed at the base of the wall and between two paths, without occupying the wall when it is not in use, leaving space for traditional climbing with a partner.

The true revolution of ProGrade is that it guarantees the belay in the traditional manner, from below, for an authentic climbing experience through the completely automated management of each step, from knot check to rappelling to the ground. It can therefore be used for both lead climbing and top roping, bringing a wide range of advantages, such as the possibility to rest.

Chapters:

0:00 Intro
0:45 first contact
1:10 tie in
2:07 climbing
3:32 simulated fall
3:55 getting lowered
4:19 second use
5:45 simulated falling
6:19 getting lowered
6:30 how to untie
7:30 pulling in rope after the climb
8:04 analysis / experience / thoughts
9:20 outro