That Ferry Ride Took a Turn I Never Expected — Strayan Ep 18

I roll into Monkey Bay, Malawi, where I meet an absolute New Zealand legend, and together we somehow manage to wrangle our motorbikes onto the historic Ilala Ferry. What begins as a slow, dreamy two-day cruise up Lake Malawi shifts sharply when, in the early morning, it’s discovered that someone had disappeared overnight. No one saw them go, no one heard a thing, and their body was never found. The ferry stopped, police came aboard, and a heavy silence settled over the decks — a quiet, sobering reminder of how unforgiving the lake can be. Out here, life keeps drifting forward, and the water doesn’t wait for anyone.

Eventually we reach Nkhata Bay, where paradise takes the reins. Clear water, cliffside hideouts, and the warmest locals. I reset properly — including a run-in with the local rasta who bakes infamous weed cakes that could tranquillise a buffalo. Between the lake swims and edible-induced time warps, Nkhata delivers exactly the vibe I needed.

From there, I ride further north to an incredible hideaway called The Mushroom Eco Lodge. Waterfalls, new friends, late-night chats, and that irresistible Malawian calm bring the perfect close to this chapter — a blend of beauty, contrast, and unexpected moments that stick with you.

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