202509_Italy 2025 - Ligurian Coast & Elba Island - Part 8: Lacona & Marina di Campo

We've been at the Santa Maria campsite in Lacona since yesterday. Today I want to explore the Stella peninsula by bike. At the foot of the peninsula lies the Tortuga Beach Club with a small bathing cove. From here, the trail climbs toward another campsite perched on the hillside. A strong wind whips dark clouds toward me. A ghostly scene of light and darkness presents itself. Between the pebbles, I spot a blooming field bindweed. I'm surrounded by bushes of flowering juniper.

Unfortunately, I can't get any further onto the peninsula via the campsite and have to go back. A washed-out path leads steeply uphill in places. It's actually something for mountain bikers. From up on the plateau, I have a magnificent view of Stella Bay. Opposite—not visible in the haze—is the mountain village of Capoliveri. However, the Capo Pini peninsula is clearly visible. Yesterday, we saw a party location here on the plateau. Down in the bay lies Margidore Beach.

I've now reached the top, overlooking the Bay of Lacona. Opposite, the cliff of Capo di Fonza glows in the morning sun. I meet a few older mountain bikers and hikers here who have set out on a longer circular route, as the peninsula extends far out into the sea. However, this is impossible to manage on my bike, so I turn back.

It's midday, and the humidity is literally hanging over the campsite. We're grateful for any shade. Others use the breeze to cool off. In the late afternoon, I finally enjoy the sea for a refreshing dip. In the distance, you can see the volcanic cone of the island of Monte Cristo. At 6 p.m., the mini-taxi takes the children around the campsite before they go to bed.

It's the next day, and I cycle to the other side of the campsite, to Punta della Contessa. There's also a campsite up here, far above the sea, and I have a wonderful view of the expansive sandy beach of Lacona.

The special feature of Punta della Contessa, however, are the broken rocks that lie in the sea. This small beach is mainly used by locals, who, however, have to endure a long walk from the parking lot.

I have to climb a bit to reach the rocks. And then a magnificent panorama opens up, with crystal-clear water between the rocks. A cormorant waits on a rock, waiting for the next fish. The snorkelers are probably looking for the same thing in the clear water. The couple probably imagined the tranquility differently. The small bay is something special.

Late in the afternoon, we drive in a rental car over Monte Carbone to the small town of Marina di Campo, 10 km away. The sun is just setting, and there are already a few people heading towards the restaurants. We can well imagine that the pedestrian zone here is bustling during the summer months.

At the harbor, we discover one restaurant after another. There aren't many paying customers to be seen. Music by the Eagles is already blaring from a pub. My wife has discovered yet another lampshade shop.

Piazza Gaetano looks as if it's been newly renovated. What a backdrop the giant umbrella pine tree in front of the elaborately restored building with a jewelry shop provides. The harbor has almost become quiet. The moored boats lie dreamily against the backdrop of the setting sun. We settle down for a sundowner in a bar overlooking the harbor on this balmy evening before returning to the campsite.

Tomorrow and the day after, we'll explore the western part of the island with our rental car.