Energy System Training - Steve Smith (Season 3, Episode 4)

In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Steve Smith discuss the complexities of energy system training for climbers, particularly focusing on how to effectively train with limited resources. They discuss the importance of understanding muscle contractions, the various energy systems involved in climbing, and practical training protocols that can be implemented off the wall. The conversation emphasizes the need for a personalized approach to training, including a needs analysis to determine the most effective training components for individual climbers. The episode concludes with key takeaways on how to optimize climbing fitness while minimizing the risk of injury.

Takeaways

Energy system training can be simplified for practical application.
Limited resources can still yield effective training results.
Understanding muscle contractions is crucial for climbers.
Different energy systems play distinct roles in climbing performance.
Training intensity impacts both strength and endurance fibers.
A needs analysis helps tailor training to individual climbers.
Max strength training is essential for all climbers.
Aerobic capacity training may not be necessary for all climbers.
Training smarter can lead to better performance with less time.
Regular assessment of training effectiveness is vital.

Steve Smith's Bio

Steve Smith is a Doctor of Physical Therapy, who is a board certified specialist in Orthopaedic Physical Therapy, and Strength & Conditioning. He has been climbing since 2006, and has a particular interest in specialized sport training and rehabilitation, using science and evidence-based practice to improve performance and return patients to their highest level of athletic abilities. Steve works in an academic Orthopedic and Sports Medicine setting and, in his free time, acts as a training and injury risk reduction consultant to local competitive and recreational climbers. He currently lives in Huntington, WV with his wife, son and daughter.

Chapters

00:00 Introduction to Energy System Training
04:30 Understanding Limited Resources in Training
10:17 Muscle Contractions and Their Importance
17:03 Energy Systems Overview
24:33 Components of Energy System Training
29:56 Practical Applications of Training
33:54 Understanding Climbing Intensity and Training
39:36 Exploring Strength Endurance and Pump Training
47:29 Assessing and Programming for Climbing Training
50:48 Needs Analysis in Climbing Training
01:03:34 Key Takeaways for Effective Climbing Training

FULL PODCAST EPISODE
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🎙Full Podcast Episode: https://theclimbingdoctor.com/s3-e4-e...

FULL ARTICLE & DOWNLOADABLE RESOURCE
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LINKS & RESOURCES
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BOOKS, INJURY PROTOCOLS, AND REHAB TOOLS
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INJURY REHAB COURSES
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