Day 11 of the Via Francigena in Italy from Radicofani to Acquapendente - 14.8 miles (24km)

Radicofani to Acquapendente Stage 11

Via Francigena, Tuscany, Italy

From Radicofani the route is mostly downhill, with a short climb to Acquapendente. The last 7km is alongside a busy road-take great care here, the traffic seems to be very fast, there is a long diversion via Proceno that could be taken to avoid this. We had visited the supermarket on the outskirts of Radicofani the previous night, a good thing as the restaurant recommended for lunch was shut.

We left at 7.45am and walked round the village, admiring the fabulous cloud inversion by the church. We ate breakfast at La Tocco, where we had eaten lunch the previous day. We left at 8.30am and walked back down the main street, through the gate passing the Tourist office, heading into the pretty countryside once more. We took time to look back to the tall fortress looking resplendent in the morning sunshine, with an amazing blue sky behind. After 3 miles, we reached an e-bike centre, a picnic bench and a superb sign saying Roma 184km. After 4.8 miles we went over an old bridge, passing some large farm houses.

We reached Ponte a Rigo (6.5 miles, 2 hours 15mins, 70m ascent), at the road junction. The old church is now a pilgrim hostel. There is a lovely picnic area in the shade and a sign to Canterbury 1460km, and Santiago de Compostela 1580km. We turned left following the path at the side of the road, going on the bridge over the river Elvella. We were excited to leave Tuscany and arrive in Lazio province (9.3 miles, 3.5 hours, 114m). The weather was warming up nicely. The path goes along the old road and tracks through fields, before arriving in Centeno. Unfortunately, the recommended La Dogana restaurant was closed.

Now the road walking begins for the next 7kms. Large trucks and cars race very fast towards you, also be careful of ones overtaking behind. We tried to stay in the gutter at times when the largest vehicles came past.

Eventually, we stopped at the very welcome, friendly Pilgrims Le Roghette rest stop, and bought sandwiches and drinks, (13 miles, 5 hours 15 mins, 138m ascent). We continued up a steep road, passing an old church with Aquapendente coming into view after 14 miles. The path now takes a strange detour going behind a derelict building down to an insect ridden stream, and up a steep hill. In hindsight we would have just continued along the road into the medieval town. We arrived at our fabulous accommodation of Casa Vacanze 11 Pugnalone at 2.50pm.

We walked round the town visiting the Basilica of Cathedrale di San Sepolcro, found at the end of the town. Then walked up to the tower of Barbarossa overlooking the town.

We ate pizza at Pizza and Piazza, on the main square.

Distance 14.8 miles (24km)

Duration of Walk 6 Hours 20 minutes including breaks

Elevation Gained 971feet (296m)

Pace 25 min a mile

Websites https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran... Breakfast

www.radicofaniebike.it E bike centre, just in case you have had enough of walking!

www.bookings.com Casa Vacanze 11 Pugnalone A stunning apartment, newly renovated in a medieval building. Every small detail had been thought of, even including home-made cakes and biscuits which we ate for breakfast. We would totally recommend.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acquape... Cathedral in Acquapendente

https://acquapendente.artecitta.it/en... Tower from the 12th century.

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran... Dinner

Information

Maybe because it was a Sunday, we did not find many restaurants open, so we ate pizza again. When we arrived, all the shops were shut, otherwise we would have cooked in the apartment.