Ankle Sprain Rehab for Rock Climbers - Nicholas Hedges (Season 3, Episode 2)

In this conversation, Dr. Nick Hedges discusses the importance of the lower body, specifically the ankle, in climbing. He highlights the prevalence of ankle injuries in climbing and the potential consequences of ankle sprains. Dr. Hedges provides self-assessment techniques to determine ankle susceptibility and reduce the risk of injury. He also explains how to test ankle mobility and function, as well as how to tease out the different systems involved in balance. Dr. Hedges offers tips for training and improving balance and provides insights on benchmarking and comparing balance performance. The conversation concludes with a case study of sprained ankles in a climbing gym. This conversation explores the assessment, treatment, and rehabilitation of ankle sprains in rock climbers. The importance of addressing ankle stability and mobility is emphasized, along with the need to determine the severity of an ankle injury. The stages of ankle rehabilitation are discussed, including the unload stage, partial loading stage, initial loading stage, dynamic and plyometric stage, and fear avoidance. The conversation concludes with a reminder to seek professional help if needed and to prioritize ankle health to prevent chronic instability and future injuries.

Nicholas Hedge's Bio
Nic Hedges has a Doctorate in Chiropractic as well as a Masters degree in Sport Science and Rehabilitation. Since graduating chiropractic school, Nic has taught anatomy and physiology at Colorado Mountain College. He was also a member of the climbing special interest group, which provided him the opportunity to collaborate with other professionals in a niche sport. He is now the proud owner and operator of Synergy Sports Clinic in Grand Junction, Colorado. When he’s not working in clinic, he can be found climbing in rifle or trail running.

Takeaways
• Significance of Ankle Health in Climbing: The lower body, particularly the ankle, plays a crucial role in climbing, with ankle injuries being common and often severe among climbers.
• Self-Assessment and Injury Prevention: Dr. Hedges provides techniques for climbers to self-assess their ankle susceptibility, helping them to identify risk factors and take steps to reduce the likelihood of injury.
• Ankle Mobility and Balance Testing: Practical methods are shared for testing ankle mobility and evaluating balance, with insights into how different systems contribute to maintaining stability on the wall.
• Rehabilitation Stages for Ankle Sprains: The stages of ankle rehabilitation are outlined, including unloading, partial loading, initial loading, dynamic and plyometric training, and addressing fear avoidance to support a full recovery.

Chapters
00:00 Introduction and Background
01:30 The Importance of the Lower Body in Climbing
06:19 The Consequences of Ankle Sprains
08:02 Self-Assessment for Ankle Susceptibility and Injury Risk Reduction
11:33 Testing Ankle Mobility and Function
14:26 Teasing Out the Different Systems Involved in Balance
21:09 Benchmarking and Comparing Balance Performance
22:39 Case Study: Sprained Ankles in a Climbing Gym
22:46 Importance of Assessing and Addressing the Ankle
27:05 Determining the Severity of an Ankle Injury
35:30 Stages of Ankle Rehabilitation
44:05 Closing Thoughts on Ankle Sprains and Rock Climbing

FULL PODCAST EPISODE
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FULL ARTICLE
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