$0.80 Local Bus to Indian Paradise 🇮🇳

📍Goa, India

Leaving Vasco da Gama didn’t go quite to plan. We missed the bus before we even found the right stand, so we killed time the best way possible, with a clean shave from a kind, meticulous barber in a little pink shop that felt frozen in time.

Back at the bus depot, we had to interrupt the ticket guy mid-watch, locked into an Alan Shearer best goals compilation, to get our seats on the 1:30 to Margao.

The ride was worth it. A non-AC state bus rolling through some of the most beautiful parts of Goa. Jungle thick and green, colorful Portuguese cathedrals rising from the roadside, small towns drifting by like something out of a half-remembered dream.

From Margao, we caught a colder, more cramped ride south to Canacona. An AC bus that felt more like a meat locker, packed tight, but it got us there.

We wandered Canacona’s quiet streets and flagged down a rickshaw, 150 rupees down the winding roads, the palm trees swaying, the air heavy with salt.

And then, finally, Patnem Beach.

We checked into a simple beach bungalow at RoundCube, £18 a night, just steps from the sea. Dropped our bags and ran into the waves. They were massive, tossing us like driftwood, until a riptide kicked up and we got out while it was still fun.

As the sky turned gold, we strolled the beach. Drum circles, small beach bars, people sitting barefoot with sandy legs and cold drinks in hand. We joined them. Several Jack Daniels on the rocks later, I tried my first ever vindaloo, the real Goan kind. Hot, sour, full of character, easily the best curry I’ve ever had.

We finished the night the same way we started it, wandering slowly, a little lost, but exactly where we were supposed to be.


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