3 a.m. DOUBLES FACTORY and TRINI INDIAN FOOD in Port of Spain, Trinidad!!

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When you visit Trinidad and Tobago, you quickly learn that the local street food culture revolves around a unique dish called doubles, which cooks begin preparing in the wee hours of the morning! Come with me as I head out at 3 a.m. to a doubles factory and enjoy Trini Indian food in Port of Spain, Trinidad!

My morning began at Cassie’s Creations just outside of Port of Spain for some Indian delicacies. Later, we’d head to Donkee and Audie’s Doubles and Pies down the road.

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At Sharida’s Place (now called Cassie’s Creations), I met Chef Sharaz, who would be taking me around. They sell rotis, aloo pies, a vegetable dish called chokas. There, Sharida’s son told me that the place shifted to a grab-and-go spot during the pandemic.

They offered a mix of dishes, including stewed vegetables, sweet potatoes, curried shrimp, fried chicken, stewed beef, chicken liver, gizzards, fried egg and sausage, fried aloo, roasted baingan, bitter gourd, tomato chouka, chicken pies, beef rolls, sada roti, and much more!

I watched them make rotis on a griddle with ghee. They stuffed another flatbread with dal to make dal puri. They also have a flatbread called Buss Up Shut.

Mine contained curried potatoes and curried chicken. They also fried up some doughy fritters called pholourie, which looked like bonda, and prepared some salted cod fish.

We ate right in the kitchen, starting with the pholourie with mango chutney and hot sauce. The hot sauce was nice and the pholourie was soft, fluffy, and spongy, and not very crisp on the outside.

It really absorbed the chutney and tasted really nice. I loved the peppery mango chutney. It was amazing! Combining both sauces blew me away. It was way too good!

Next was the pepper roti, which contains lots of pepper. I loved the flaky layers, as well as the carrots, cheese, and potatoes inside. It was filled with stuffing!

Then, we had a wrapped roti with potatoes and chicken inside. It was massive. You eat it with a red Solo soda. I’m not a soda drinker, but it was nice and refreshing. The cherries in it complemented the thick, heavy roti!

I took the rest to go and then tried a beef pie. It was flaky and herbal, and really delicious. After meeting Sharida (who reminded me not to forget my Solo), Sharaz, my friend David, and I drove to Donkee and Audie’s Doubles and Pies.

After one minute, we arrived and saw the cooks preparing lamb pies and bara (fried flatbread). The bara cooks in oil in just four seconds! Traditional doubles are just bara and chana, but more modern versions add meat and chutneys.

They make bara nonstop from 3am to 7am, place them in coolers, and ship them to vendors throughout the city. We got our pies, bara, chana, and a variety of sauces and chutneys (chadon beni, sweet sauce, mango chutney, roasted pepper).

You take the top bara off and eat. It was spicy and not too oily. The bara was light and airy and the flavors of all the sauces and the chana blew my mind.

The cheese pie also contained carrots. It was like an open, savory empanada with a soft dough. I loved the eggplant pie, which was also doughy because it was flash fried. It was amazing!

Where have you been?

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About Me:

My name is David Hoffmann. Since starting David’s Been Here in 2008, I have traveled to over 1,300 destinations in 88 countries to experience and document unique cultures on my YouTube channel, travel blog, and social media.

I highlight culture and historical sites, but my passion is food! I love to experience and showcase the different flavors each destination has to offer, from casual street food to gourmet restaurant dining.

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