PHARPING (YANGLESHÖ): Guru Rinpoche's Sacred Caves

Pharping, also known as Yangleshö in Tibetan, is a spiritually significant town near Kathmandu Valley, closely tied to Guru Padmasambhava, or Guru Rinpoche, who spent significant time here, using the upper Asura Cave for winter retreats and the lower Yangleshö Cave for summer meditations. In the Asura Cave, he achieved the profound third vidyadhara level, Mahamudra, through practicing the Yangdak Heruka sadhana. During his retreat, a drought caused famine and disease in the region, which Guru Rinpoche alleviated by receiving tantric instructions on Vajrakilaya from his Indian masters. His efforts led to the compilation of the Vajrakilaya teachings, earning him the title Pandita of Yangleshö.
The Yangleshö Cave, near Kyapjé Chatral Rinpoche’s monastery, holds historical and spiritual importance but lacks official caretaking. Kyabjé Tulku Urgyen Rinpoche established a monastery and retreat center at the Asura Cave in the early 1980s, fulfilling the 16th Karmapa's request. This site remains accessible, maintained by resident lamas. Inside, visitors can see a handprint and statues of Guru Rinpoche, Yangdak Heruka, and Vajrakilaya.
Nearby, natural formations such as the “Ah” syllable and blackish kila formations are remnants of Guru Rinpoche's Vajrakilaya practice. Ralo Rinpoche's monastery features a Guru Dorjé Drolö statue and a shrine with Ganesh and Tara images. In the 11th century, Pharping was home to Newar masters Dharmamati and Vagishvara, who propagated Vajrayogini teachings. Marpa Lotsawa visited the Pharping Vajrayogini temple multiple times.
The lower Yangleshö Cave has a naturally formed conch, a pristine spring, and a lagoon called the "spring of enlightenment." In Dolu village, a giant Guru Rinpoche statue and the Yeshe Tsogyal Cave attract pilgrims.
Dakshinkali, sacred to Hindus for rituals to Goddess Kali, is also revered by Tibetan Buddhists as an ancient charnel ground.
Pharping remains a sanctuary of profound spiritual practice, embodying the legacy of Guru Rinpoche and other masters who have graced its sacred sites.