How to Easily Fix Rusty Doors on a Chevy Silverado 1988-98 OBS. Completely DIY!

It was finally time to address the rusty doors, so today I'm going today, I'm going take off and patch the bottom of the doors on a 98 Chevrolet Silverado. I'm not a painter or an Auto body guy. I'm an average DIYer working on the cheap. This is not the correct way to make it perfect but just make it good enough and look good from about 20 yards. By investing a little time and effort into your rusty doors, you can transform your Chevy Silverado 88-98 OBS into something that looks pretty good from a couple yards away. Best of all, it will keep these old trucks on the road and probably save you some money in the long run.

I didn't do a lot of metal work. Actually, I really didn't do any.
The Process. I sanded down and sand blasted the bad spots on the door. Then I sprayed the area I would be working on with Epoxy Primer. Downside of using Epoxy versus a Metal etching primer, is that you have to wait, at least 5 days before you can sand it, but that stuff is just sand-able glue after its dried. You can then do all your body work right over top. There are numerous videos about Epoxy Primer versus Metal Etching primer. I'm not going to get into the debate here.
After the Epoxy Primer cured, I filled the Rust holes with Short Strand Fiberglass body filler. Fiberglass body filler is waterproof, unlike basic body filler, plus it's a lot harder.
After I ground down the filler with 36 Grit on an air sander, I did some minor body filler on the exterior. I went through the motions of increasing the Grit on the filler till I had reached 400 Grit. Thats where I screwed up.... After I sprayed on the paint, I realized that the paint has a metallic flake in it. With metallic flake paints you should go to at least 600 Grit because the flake will lay in the sand marks differently than the flat part and make them stand out bad.
After realizing my error, I re-sanded the areas with 600 Grit paper and re-sprayed them with paint followed by clear coat.
Finally, after I had all the trim and body Moulding back on, I sprayed inside the door cavities with an Internal Frame Coating from Eastwood.com. This should slow or prevent moisture from creeping back into the pinch welds on the bottom of the door and also coat and convert any current rust that's inside and I couldn't see.
Lastly, I know I spoke about the tailgate, but that section of the video was corrupted and didn't turn out. I did sand and paint the tailgate also!

Cab Corner Fix Part 1:    • How to Replace cab corners and Rocker Pane...  
Silverado Grille Replacement:    • How to upgrade the Grille on 1988-98 OBS C...  

Tools and Supplies.
Eastwood Fast Etch: https://www.eastwood.com/rust-remover...
Sherwin WIlliams Automotive Paints: https://www.sherwin-williams.com/
Fiberglass Short Strand Filler: https://www.eastwood.com/contour-ligh...
Contour Body Filler: https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-con...
Internal Frame coating: https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-int...

Harbor Freight Sandblaster: https://www.harborfreight.com/air-too...


intro: 0:00
Door Removal: 1:37
Blasting the Door: 3:50
Blasting Results: 4:18
Fast Etch on doors: 6:23
Sanding Door Area: 7:20
Spraying Epoxy Primer: 8:32
Adding Short-strand Fiberglass: 11:33
Adding Body Filler: 13:01
Priming Over body filler: 14:45
Applying Paint to inside of Doors: 16:44
Applying Paint to outside of doors: 21:00
Noticing my Screw up: 21:44
Laying Clear: 24:31
Putting the Moulding back on: 25:16
Outro: 28:38