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Making a *thrifty* medieval dress (15th century kirtle on the cheap)

Автор: Making History

Загружено: 2021-04-11

Просмотров: 45291

Описание:

Using historical garment construction methods, thrifted fabric, and natural dyes, I make a medieval 15th-century linen work dress!

The research I did for this project relied heavily on information that's been collected and generously shared online through various SCA-related websites. Links below.

00:00 Intro
1:20 Inspiration
2:07 History rant
4:50 "Gothic" art?
6:17 Methodology
7:04 Construction
12:29 Botanical Dye
14:30 Dressing up like manuscript art - Historical Hair
16:30 PHOTO SHOOT
17:51 Closing thoughts ft prancing in dress

I'm an amateur sewist and amateur historian, so nothing presented here is an expert opinion. Kind feedback and corrections are welcome and appreciated.

--Further Reading & Links--
Diagrams of extant medieval garments
http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-...
A pattern of the Moy bog gown by Kass Mcgann https://reconstructinghistory.com/pro...

---Dye Notes---
For anyone interested, here is my dye process.
-Washed with normal detergent
-Scoured with washing soda and a drop of dish soap for ~4 hrs
-Mordanted with staghorn sumac leaves (fairly low %WOF, steeped for ~6 hours), rinsed and dried
-Washed with detergent
-Mordanted with alum
-2 hr hot onion skin dye bath (skins of ~40 brown onions)
-Rinsed and dried
-Final wash with detergent after 3 days to sit

--Notes, Corrections, Clarifications --
-Though the term is lifted from medieval texts, 'cotehardie' probably did not actually mean 'women's gown' in the middle ages. It is, however, a common term in use today to describe the outer Gothic Fitted Gown.
-On white nationalism and medievalism: various forms of 'medievalism' have been employed by white nationalist movements (notably the Nazi party and present-day Identitarians) to construct ethnic origin myths and/or to construct a historical basis for a white/european sameness. These 'medievalisms' are often compatible with the myths of the middle ages that exist within the popular imagination (both are grounded in Romanticism), so I think it's important when we nerd about this history to not leave space for that garbage.
-The Christian faith has indeed spread in a grassroots way in some times and places in its history. Christianity as the institution of the Catholic church is a different story, and that is more what I was referring to.

--Images--
In order of appearance. Public domain unless otherwise specified. License information below.

Thumbnail: Lady and unicorn from Platearius's Livre des Simples Medicines, illuminated by Robinet Testard. FR 12322, f.188v / Bibliothèque Nationale de France
Garment from Herjolfsnes. Photo by Lennart Larsen. CC BY-SA 2.0 / National Museum of Denmark
The Hunt by Paolo Ucello / Ashmolean Museum
Detail (4 figures) from Way of Salvation by Andrea di Bonaluto
Horse from a fresco at Castello della Manta.
Kirtle from a Book of Hours. MS 677, f. 211r / Morgan Library
Buncha ladies in dresses, via Wikimedia
Blue kirtle from the Très Riches Heures du Duc de Berry, Illuminated by Limbourg Brothers, ms.65, f.6v / Condé Museum
Christianity map via Wikimedia
The Baptism of Clovis by Master of St Giles / National Gallery of Art
Madonna and child by Giotto
Nun marginalia from a manuscript of Roman de la Rose (what one?), via Wikimedia
La Cattedrale, Milano by Giacomo Brogi, via Wikimedia
12th-century sculpture at Chartes Cathedral, France: by Cancre, CC BY-SA 2.5, via Wikimedia
Tebaide by Paolo Ucello / Galleria dell'Accademia, Firenze
Michaelangelo's David
Ferial psalter and book of hours, illustration by Bernat Martorell / Arxiu Històric de la Ciutat
Big Ben: by Paasikivi, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia
Sexy boatneck from The Book of the Queen, Selected Works of Christine de Pizan, 1410-1414, MS Harley 4431, f.129r / British Library
Herjolfsnes illustration by Herbert Norris (d. 1950), from Costume and Fashion, published 1924.
Veronica Gambara. Painting by Antonio da Correggio c. 1517–1520 / The Hermitage Museum, Saint Petersburg, Russia
Lucrezia Sommaria. Painting by Ridolfo Ghirlandaio c. 1510 / National Gallery of Art
Italian hair taping from a manuscript miniature: MS lat. 757 f. 380v / Bilbliothèque Nationale de France

CC BY-SA 2.5 description: https://creativecommons.org/licenses/...
CC BY-SA 4.0 description: https://creativecommons.org/licenses/...

Music---
"Journey in the New World" by Twin Musicom CC BY 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/...
Source: http://www.twinmusicom.org/song/258/j...
Artist: http://www.twinmusicom.org

"Anon - Medieval Dance Tunes." Medley of medieval music performed by Paul Arden-Taylor, Elizabeth Wright & Malcolm Peake. Public Domain. Via Musopen

"Village Consort" by Kevin MacLeod
Link: https://filmmusic.io/song/4585-villag...
License: https://filmmusic.io/standard-license

"Horses and Trains" by Jesse Gallagher, Youtube music library

Making a *thrifty* medieval dress (15th century kirtle on the cheap)

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