North Sea to Irish Sea: A New Era & New Crew.

Episode 12 marks a major turning point in this boating journey around the UK.

Since departing on May 16th, we’ve battled diesel bugs, pushed through rough conditions in the North Sea, and transited the Caledonian Canal, including Neptune’s Staircase and Loch Ness. Now, in Corpach, the canal journey ends—and a new chapter begins.

Corpach sits at the western end of the Caledonian Canal, where freshwater meets saltwater at Loch Linnhe. Its name is often translated from Gaelic as “field of corpses,” reflecting its long history as a burial route to Iona, a site of clan conflict, and later a U.S. Navy base during World War I used for laying defensive mines. It’s a quiet place with a heavy past—and the perfect threshold between journeys.

This episode also marks a crew change. My original crew, fellow captain John and Beth, have headed home, and my childhood friend Rod steps aboard as my sole deckhand. Together, we head back into open saltwater—for the first time, both Zeeotter and I will be in the Irish Sea.

Breaking in a new crew member along Scotland’s west coast means navigating some of the most beautiful yet unpredictable cruising grounds in the world. Rod is far more relaxed than I am—perhaps because he’s not fully aware of all the navigational hazards, tides, and weather challenges that lie ahead.

Along the way, we slow down to explore on foot. A walk toward Fort William leads us past the haunting wreck of the MV Dayspring, a classic Scottish herring drifter driven ashore during a 2011 storm. A tempting ladder, a moment of hesitation, and a reminder that safe seamanship matters more than bravado.

We pass a hill shaped like a sleeping elephant, then cross to Old Inverlochy Castle, a 13th-century stronghold built to control the Great Glen. Standing among these ruins makes it impossible not to reflect on history, risk, and the smallness of a single lifetime.

The next day, we depart for Kerrera, just off Oban—a short run, but a major mental shift back into true west-coast cruising. Salt air, open water, rugged scenery, and the kind of place that makes you wish every boater you know could be there too.

After docking, we unload the bikes and ride to Gylen Castle, a 16th-century cliff-top stronghold built by Clan MacDougall to watch the shipping lanes. Lush green hills, sheep-filled trails, missed turns, and questionable GPS guidance—pure Scotland.

Back aboard, we share small rituals—like introducing Rod to Irn-Bru, Scotland’s iconic soft drink—and reflect on how these quiet moments often become the most memorable parts of long-distance cruising.

Ahead lies a serious commitment: Campbeltown.
A 12-hour run.
100 nautical miles.

And when we arrive, we’re met by the unexpected—the UK Royal Navy.

This channel is part logbook, part travel documentary, and part personal journey through long-distance boating, seamanship, and exploration.

See you next Sunday as the journey continues — Port to Port.

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