19) Testa di violino parte diciannovesima - Finitura della cassetta piroli

INDICE DEI VIDEO : http://davidesora.altervista.org/vide...

ENGLISH TRANSLATION of the written notes in the video, in order of appearance :

00:04 - Violin scroll part nineteen - Finishing of the pegbox

00:23 - Use a fine-cut flat rasp with no sharp edges to finish the walls, removing all marks of the chisel

01:17 - Finish well the upper line of the jaws coming on the reference pencil marks

01:30 - Use the chisel for the bottom of the walls where it will still be necessary to adjust the thickness and to get well into the corners

01:51 - Switch to a fine-cut half-round file to remove all the marks of the rasp, finishing with care the internal upper line of the jaws making it slightly concave lengthwise

02:15 - Erase all marks of pencil cleaning up well the surface, to have a better view of the lines and the actual thickness of the jaws

02:28 - If the eraser is not enough also use the flat scraper so as to completely eliminate all traces of pencil

02:42 - Check that the thickness is correct and symmetrical on both sides, preferably not less than 4.5 mm at the top and 7 mm at the base of the wall

03:06 - Also check that the width of the box is greater than 16 mm at the G peg

03:14 - Incise the base of the walls with a long-bladed knife

03:56 - With the 6 mm chisel finish the bottom of the box bringing it to the final thickness of about 5 mm, giving it a harmonic curve that follow the back

04:23 - Also use chisels as scrapers for finishing the surface up to where possible

04:33 - Chisel 10 mm wide

04:39 - Chisel 6 mm wide

04:51 - Finish the terminal part only by cutting with a chisel 6 mm wide

05:08 - Finish the thickness of the plane under the G peg with a chisel 10mm wide

05:34 - Check the thickness

05:47 - Finish the end wall, reaching about 5 mm behind the A peg, wetting the end grain with water for easy cutting

06:02 - Use the chisel 6 mm wide, taking care to respect the inclination of the side walls so as not to enlarge too much the bottom of the box

06:16 - Be careful not to dig too deep to not weaken the structure, leaving a step of a few millimeters to facilitate the finish of the angle

06:34 - Incise well the sides of the step with the knife

06:44 - Cut along the split line of the fiber lowering gradually the step

07:23 - Finish the bottom of the box under the A peg with a concave curve, so as to get up against the end wall with a smooth surface and without tears

07:54 - Finish at last the wall at the nut with the 10 mm chisel, wetting with water to facilitate the cutting of the end grain

08:10 - Keep in control the excursion of the chisel, avoiding as much as possible to hit the bottom and side walls of the box so as not to damage them

08:27 - Bring the wall at a distance of about 5 mm from the hole for the G peg, holding it the more inclined forward as possible not to weaken the structure

09:36 - Use the scrapers to clean the inside surface of the walls from all marks and scratches left by the files, but respecting the edges that will serve as a reference for the final outer chamfers

10:13 - Ream the holes by adapting test pegs but without reaching at the definitive measure, in order to understand if the depth of the box is enough

10:27 - Regularly change the position of the scroll giving equal number of turns of the reamer in each position, to compensate for misalignment of the axis of the hole due to the asymmetric force of rotation of the hand

11:17 - Remove burrs left on the margins of the holes using a conical grinding wheel of fine grit, leaving a slight uniform chamfer on the circumference

12:20 - Before making the outer chamfers of the box proceed with the fluting of the back,
to avoid damaging them accidentally during the working in the throat.

12:31 - For the fluting of the back please refer to videos :
Fluting of the back Part One
Fluting of the back Part Two
Fluting of the back Part Three

12:42 - Index of videos : http://davidesora.altervista.org/vide...

12:50 - http://www.davidesora.it/

.