David Koma Spring-Summer 2024 Runway Show

The springtime floral is a timeless trope, a creative cliché, and a fashion institution in its own right. While the signature surface decorations of David Koma have often taken floral form, the sweetness associated with the classic flower motif constitutes something of a contrast to his practice. The Spring-Summer 2024 Collection embraces this divergence in an exploration of floral romanticism within the glamorous modernism of David Koma. Through Georgian designer’s adopted London gaze, the notion prompts the idea of the English rose as embodied by a young Elizabeth II.

During her military service in the early 1940s, the princess was photographed riding a Royal Enfield 250 motorcycle. The contrasting spirit of the image inspires a collection founded in the dialogue between her graceful biker attitude and the vibrant flower-coloured looks she favoured later in life. Intensified in nuance and projected in the graphic form language of David Koma – with nods to Marianne Faithfull’s rather more riotous English rose in The Girl on a Motorcycle from 1968 – it is an illustration of the multifaceted and versatile femininity at the core of the brand and its clientele. Racing attire manifests in takes on the David Koma leather biker jacket alongside thigh-high boots adorned with protective motorcycle pads.

The rose is interpreted in the three-dimensionality of silhouettes, embellishments and prints. Evoking petals, sculptural ruffles burst from the body like roses in bloom, hand-crafted sequinned petals encrusted on tulle create fallen-leaf effects, and the acidic colours of oversized rose prints are amplified by black backdrops. Intricate organic patterns interwoven by climbing roses translate effortlessly onto printed silk mesh enveloping the body, or onto leather in the form of knee-high boots. A base note in the romantic wardrobe, lace is subverted in a hand-drawn rose variation embroidered on tulle to imitate the idea of tattoos on the skin, and in a classic 1960s daisy motif re-imagined in a crystal-effect floral lace, also manifested as maxi-lace through cut-outs on leather pieces.

The translucent organic and opaque acidic palette captures the spectrum of green, orange, pink and lilac shades, complemented by black and white. Queen Elizabeth’s signature look transmutes with the motorcycle wardrobe in a variety of takes on the twinset and the overall idea of coordination. Solid colour blocking pays tribute to Her Late Majesty’s “one has to be seen to be believed” philosophy, adorned with magnified encrusted brooches employed across buttons, linking details and accessories. Here, David Koma’s first line of handbags takes centre stage.

The collection introduces four shapes in a series of metallic colours and dimensions. Informed by the permanence of the Queen’s bag choices, the DK City re-appropriates the classic structured flap shape into a day-to-evening shoulder bag emblazoned with the DK logo. The Racer draws on the biker attitude in an oversized slouchy day bag proposed with motorcycle safety pads or in minimal smooth leather. Playing with double-entendres, the Apex – a sculptural metal clutch – evokes the shape of a shark’s fin or the thorn of a rose. Finally, the Noir Icon takes inspiration from military accessories in a structured but soft metallic leather evening bag with an adjustable crossbody or shoulder chain.

Models: Achan Biong, Adit Priscilla, Aditsa Berzeina, Ana Portel, Andrea Ostlund, Angair Biong, Anna Virang, Aoi Watanabe, Barathy Akkan, Bente Oort, Bibi Abdulkadir, Bingbing Liu, Cai Guannan, Candice Shepstone, Caren Jepkemei, Cheyenne Tichich, Christie Munezero, Clara Wakonigg, Dahan Phuong Oanh, Dohyun Kim, Duda Cavalcante, Dyanira Hurbuscher, Eliza Rutson Pang, Emma Menne, Fanfan, Ikram Abdi Omar, Ilana Hansen, Issa Lish, Jade Hsu, Jinrong Huang, Kanta Kaylyn, Karolina Bisova, Kateryna Lashko, Kendall Miller, Kerolyn Soares, Kuany Atem, Layla Nesteruc, Loulou Westlake, Madelyn Whitley, Majda John Peter, Margo Whitley, Mathilda Gvarliani, Mayor Dutie, Miao Ziyi, Migoa Majoang, Naddie Kurgan, Natalia Montero, Nina Marker, Nour Risk, Nyarach Ayuel, Onyx Burrows, Raquel Brito, Raynara Negrine, Snezana Gasic, Veronika Kunz, Yoon Young Bae

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