Heinz 6c in Berdorf - Beta in description
Автор: SjonSjon
Загружено: 2022-07-06
Просмотров: 1584
Lying in the middle of the Berdorf climbing area is Heinz, a 27m 6c route with a large variety of sandstone climbing styles from crimps, jugs, slopers, pockets, hand cracks, arettes, boulder problems a big hands-free rest and a mantle-style top-out.
In June 2022 we revisited Berdorf as a group of 12 friends. This video shows Wisse climbing and sending Heinz after some projecting.
Some of his beta tips for those projecting the route by Wisse:
0:00 Intro
0:05 Start of route
The first moves can be a bit scary since the slap up to the sloper can be hard for smaller climbers or those unfamiliar with bouldy moves. Make sure you bump a little further to a jug for safe clipping.
00:23 1st Quickdraw
00:39 2nd Quickdraw
1:09 3rd Quickdraw
2:11 4th Quickdraw
3:28 5th Quickdraw
After the 5th clip you need to find two middle-finger pockets to pull yourself up on your feet and proceed to the jugs.
4:17 6th Quickdraw
5:02 7th Quickdraw
Even though the 6th clip feels like a good place to rest, move up to the protruding flake and clip the 7th draw to stand and shake out or even sit down into a full rest. You will need to fully rest here since the rest of the route will be significantly harder.
6:01 8th Quickdraw
Proceed to the 8th clip, and clip it. But make sure not to try and rest on the rail next to the clip. My advice is to move 1 meter above the clip to find a juggy horizontal crack which allows for way better resting.
After this rest, continue to a big move to a juggy hole to the left. Some people good at crimping go straight up to a crimp but I opted for the big move. After this big move continue to the big horizontal crack feature and make the clip. Here I was starting to feel really pumped so I opted for a hand jam to make the clip.
7:35 9th Quickdraw
When you have placed the 9th clip, I found a mediocre rest by alternating between the right arette edge for the right hand, and the rightmost edge of the big horizontal crack for the left hand.
9:17 10th Quickdraw
For the final moves below towards the last clip, I used a sideways 2-finger pocket and put my feet up high onto a dish (left) and a small edge (right) to stand up and grab a v-shaped hold just below the top of the rock. Use this v-shaped hold as an intermediate to bump up to the top, making sure to reach a few centimeters further over the rock to find a good edge to make the clip and do the top-out.
9:46 11th Quickdraw
The top-out can feel a bit uncomfortable but should be easy, just make sure you do a footswap to move the right foot up and perform the mantle.
10:28 12th Quickdraw anchor
Good luck!
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