The BEST Bandsaw Setup Video on YouTube!

To get the best results from your bandsaw you need to go through the process of aligning the blade and the guide bearings every time you change the blade. It can be a finicky process. In this video I’m taking a page out of the Alex Snodgrass playbook to show you how to set up your bandsaw so that you’ll be happy with how it cuts. Without a doubt this is the BEST way to set up a bandsaw. It’s come to be known as the “Snodgrass Method”. But after watching this video, you might want to start calling it the “Miller Method”. That’s easier to say!

Align the Blade
Install the blade and apply just enough tension to keep the blade securely on the wheels. Use the tracking adjustment while turning the wheel by hand to line up the deepest part of the gullet with the center of the top wheel.

Tension the Blade
You can usually ignore the tenon meter on most bandsaws as they are notoriously inaccurate. Instead, tension the blade until your finger is only able to deflect the blade by about 1/4". This test should be done at the back of the saw where nothing can get in the way of the blade. The amount of pressure you apply to the blade shouldn't result in turning your finger white. If that happens, you're pushing too hard. After the tension is set, make sure the blade is still tracking properly with the gullet in the center of the top wheel.

Side Guides (Front to Back)
The front of the side guides should be located about 1/16" back from the deepest part of the blade gullets. You don't want the side guides to contact the cutting teeth of the blade since the teeth flare out at a slight angle. This adjustment is made to both the top and bottom guides. 

Thrust Bearings
Adjust the thrust bearings carefully so that they do NOT rotate while the blade moves, but they DO begin to rotate as soon as light pressure is applied to the blade. Spend the necessary time to get this adjustment just right. Of course, you'll do this adjustment to both the top and bottom guides. 

Side Guides (Side to Side) 
Just like the thrust bearing adjustment, the side guides should be as close to the blade as possible without actually touching. So when the blade moves the bearings should be stationary. When a slight amount of pressure is applied to the blade as its moving, the bearings should spin. 

Square the Table
Using a 2x4 or 2x6, make a partial cut into the face of the board. Turn the saw off, flip the board around and try to get the blade to slide into the cut slot. If it slides in easily and without resistance, we know the table is 90 degrees to the blade. If it doesn't slide in, make adjustments to the table and cut/test again. The wider the board is, the more accurate this test will be. 

Align the Fence
The fence can be aligned parallel with the body of the blade using nothing more than a ruler. Be sure the ruler is resting on the body of the blade between the teeth. With a long enough ruler you can easily align the fence by eye. I’ll show you the F.A.S.T system which is a simple and convenient way to do this same task. 

Test Cut
Since the overall goal of this setup process is to prepare for resawing, a good test is to slice off a thin veneer from a jointed and planed board.

*Helpful Links*

F.A.S.T Alignment System
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Kreg Precision Band Saw Fence
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1-2-3 Blocks https://lddy.no/1i5g0

Bandsaw Blades and Guides
https://sawblade.com/

Carter Bandsaw Bearing Guides
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Allen Key Set
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Benchtop Drill Press
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Grizzly 14” Bandsaw
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1HP 6.5AMP Dust Collector
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Dust Mask
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Precision Double Square
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ISOtunes Hearing Protection
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DISCLAIMER: I often review or link to products I regularly use and think you might find helpful. To support the channel, I use Affiliate links wherever possible, which means if you click one of the links in this video or description and make a purchase I may receive a small commission or other compensation. But it won’t cost you any extra. Thanks for the support!

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