Draft an Unlined Coat Pattern (Double-Faced Wool) | Raglan + Collar + Sleeve | Class 2

Learn how to draft an unlined coat pattern using double-faced (double cloth / splittable) wool.
In this step-by-step pattern drafting tutorial (Class 2 of my unlined coat series), I show you how to draft a raglan coat with collar, lapel, sleeves, belt and pockets. Let's create a DIY coat in this step-by-step sewing / pattern drafting tutorial.

This method is ideal for unlined or reversible coats because double cloth can be separated to create beautiful clean finishes (no lining required).

NEW TO THIS SERIES?
Watch Class 1 first: How to sew double-faced (splittable) wool for unlined coats
→    • How to Sew Double-Faced (Splittable) Wool ...  

TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro + what you’ll draft (Class 2 overview)
00:31 What you need (bodice block / pattern options)
01:17 Draft the back + coat length
02:56 Add A-line shaping
04:41 Shoulder + neckline adjustments
06:44 Add kick pleat / vent
07:58 Draft raglan design line
08:42 Draft the front + bust dart removal
12:31 Front shaping + overlap extension
14:08 Draft collar + lapel
20:03 Collar roll line formula
21:08 Separate collar stand + fall
23:57 Draft the sleeve
29:26 True raglan seams
31:21 Add elbow dart + wrist shaping
32:46 Draft belt + belt loops
34:38 Pocket placement
35:09 Seam allowances for double-faced wool
39:26 Collar pieces + grain / nap notes
42:43 What’s next (Class 3 teaser)

WHAT YOU'LL LEARN:
How to amend a bodice block into a coat pattern
Adding A-line shaping + managing hem balance
Adding ease, lowering the armhole, and refining shoulder shaping
Drafting a kick pleat / vent
Drafting a collar + lapel with roll line placement
Improving collar fit by separating stand + fall
Drafting / adjusting a sleeve to match an updated coat block
Drafting belt + belt loops and marking their placement
Pattern tracing + seam allowance guidance for double-faced wool

WHAT YOU NEED:
1. A well-fitting bodice block (starting point)
2. If you don’t have a block, you can start with a simple base pattern such as my Copen pattern (LINK).

COAT SERIES:
Part 1: Sewing Double-Faced Wool Fabric -    • How to Sew Double-Faced (Splittable) Wool ...  
Part 2: Drafting the Coat from Your Block - (this video)
Part 3: Sewing the Coat Start to Finish -    • Видео  

#unlinedcoat #patternmaking #sewingtutorial