Splitter crack climbing in Chamonix | Aiguille du Midi Mazeaud — Ma Dalton | JASA team
Автор: JASA team
Загружено: 2025-11-26
Просмотров: 2373
On May 19, Gosha Zhuravlev and I climbed one of the most “splittery” routes on the South Face of the Aiguille du Midi.
The route has 8 pitches — 6a, 6c, 6c, 7a, 6a, 6a, 5b, 6b. Two of the 6c pitches are pretty tricky: one follows a corner with a finger crack, and the other goes up a wall requiring awkward body positioning on gastons. The highlight and crux of the route is the 7a pitch — an overhanging corner that starts with a finger crack and ends in a chimney. One way or another, you end up using the full range of jams and some unusual offwidth techniques.
We hung around and fell a bit on all three hard pitches. Unfortunately, on the crux pitch, the hardest section of the crack was filled with verglas, so we couldn’t do all the moves cleanly. But that just gives us a reason to come back, sort it out, and try to send it properly.
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Сlimbers:
Grigoriy Chshukin / g.chshukin
Gosha Zhuravlev / georgezhuravlev
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