Dales Way - Day 4 of 6 - Ribblehead to Dent - one of the prettiest villages in the Dales villages

Thursday 23rd July Ribblehead to Dent Day 4

Breakfast was slow to arrive, as were the sandwiches that we had ordered the night before, at a cost of £7.50. An expression that we had never heard before was used by the waitress "over-toasted" when she did not want to make too much toast for the fear of us not being able to eat it-I don't recall this has ever been a problem. This term caused much amusement to us for the rest of the trip. We were eventually were ready to leave at 10am, just as dark clouds were getting closer, after a bright start to the day.

Today there was a split in the party as Simon and Steve G. wanted to do the Dales Way following the signed path properly, or those who feel that as long as most of the path is adhered to from the beginning to the end that is fine. Having followed the busy road from the Dales Way path for 1.5 miles to the pub, some of us decided to avoid returning along the road. We took the path behind the pub, following it alongside the fascinating Ribblehead Viaduct. The viaduct completed in 1872 consists of 24 arches, each standing 155 feet high, to support the 72 mile long Settle to Carlisle Railway. At one time during construction up to 2000 labourers were housed on Batty Moss. It was described by The Lancaster Guardian in 1876 as follows:

The country through which the line passes is amongst the wildest and most romantic in England. It is a continued succession of high hills with intervening valleys, so that the line

is alternately carried over viaducts, or through cuttings, or under hills hundreds of feet in height.

The views here are stunning, take time to read the information boards about the history of the viaduct, and take photos. We continued over Batty Moss, crossing rivers, past industrial remains, and admiring the waterfall. There is a path to the right which eventually leads back to the Dales Way proper, which we did not take. Instead we carried on, up and over the shoulder of Whernside. At an obvious junction the path to the left goes up Whernside-a lovely plan for a better day. We continued along the Dales Highway (or the Craven Way), the views would have been fantastic, we could just about see Dent viaduct and the hills across Dent valley, but it had started to rain again.

The path turned into a wide track passing through a gate, before we arrived at Bridge End and re-joined the Dales Way. We texted our friends and finding them behind us back up the valley, we continued. The path at times was very narrow set between a fence on the left, and a very steep tree-lined slope leading to the fast flowing River Dee, following lots of rainfall.

We arrived at Stone Close Tea room in Dent at 1.30pm, a short day for us two, again due to a shortage of accommodation. After a lovely lunch in the cafe the four friends that we were walking with left as they were staying six miles further on in Sedbergh. Dent is a beautiful picture-postcard village, with cobbled streets and old cottages. There is also The Dent Heritage Museum, which was shut when we looked at it. There are a few pubs, 12th century church, the cafe and public toilets. It is not on the official Dales Way path but well worth a detour.

We were wondering if the others would call in here, but it is not quite on the path. We heard them arrive at 3.30pm. Unfortunately one of them Debbie had fallen down the slope and landed up to her knees in the River Dee, hitting her head on a branch on the way down the bank. She was rescued by Simon and Steve, and was very lucky not to have been swept away by the strong current. Andy the owner of tea room phoned a taxi (£25.00) for Debby to take her to her room in Sedbergh leaving at 4.15pm. The others re-traced their steps to the Dales Way, eventually arriving at the Dalesway Inn in Sedbergh at 6.45pm. A long, wet and traumatic day for them.

We ate a delicious 3-course dinner (£22.00) each, with a nice selection of wines, and beer. https://stoneclose.com/ Dent

Distance 7.6 miles 12.2km

Duration of Walk Hours 3.5

Average Pace Min/km 30.22

Steps 22577

Elevation gained 858 feet 261m