Episode 189 - Dried Cured Italian Sausage

Although this episode involves sausage, it is not part of my sausage series, but rather my salumi (charcuterie) series. There are many variations of dried and cured sausage, a type of salumi, in Italy. This version is what my family generically called Abbruzzi Sausage (Salsiccia Abruzzese).

First is the pork. Organic is best, but any high quality is what you want.
• 800 grams of pork meat
• 200 grams of pork fat
Grind this to a medium grind (grinding plate with 8mm holes)

Put the pork Into the bowl of a stand mixer and add:
• 3g dextrose
• 3g cure #2 (pink salt)
• 30g salt
• 2g black pepper
• 2g medium hot chili flakes (this will just give it a little heat; you can leave it out or use hot chili flakes if you want less of more spice)
• 4g fennel seed, toasted and cracked
• 1 clove minced garlic

Use the paddle mixer and while mixing add:
• 3ml cognac
• 25ml cold red wine

You want to fully mix until it is tacky, and then add:
• 4g of a starter culture (I use F-RM-52) dissolved in distilled water per the instructions.
And mix for another minute.

The dextrose, cure #2, and started culture (as well as sausage casings) can be purchased on-line from a sausage supply company such as Butcher & Packer in Michigan. Our resident scientist, Donna, explains the purpose of these ingredients in the video (so you have to watch!), but for a quick summary:
• The starter culture causes the sausage to ferment, which lowers the pH and inhibits the growth of dangerous bacteria.
• The dextrose helps by providing food for the culture, aiding fermentation.
• The cure #2 inhibits the growth of dangerous bacteria during the drying process after fermentation.

The mixture is now stuffed into medium (38-42mm) casings. I use natural hog casings, but you could also use ones made from cellulose. For my tips and techniques for grinding the meat and stuffing the casings, please see episode 186.    • Episode 186 - Tips & Techniques for Grindi...   For a discussion of equipment for grinding and stuffing, please see episode 87.    • Episode 87 - Equipment - Grinders and Stuf...  

Once stuffed and pricked, it’s time for fermentation. For this culture, fermentation needs to be at about 80-90 degrees F (25-30 degrees C) and 80-90% humidity for about 12 hours (up to 18 hours). Through a lot of experimentation, I was able to figure out how to rig up our oven to achieve this using an immersion circulator and proof setting on the oven. If you want to discuss options for doing it at your home, drop me a note and I will be happy to help.

It will be very easy to tell that you are getting good fermentation. It is going to smell quite strong and sour in your little fermenting chamber. If you want to be extra safe, you can buy a pH meter for food testing and measure the pH level (which you want to get to below 5). Both Hanna and Oakton make various models.

Now that the initial fermentation process is complete (it will continue some slow fermentation during drying) you want to hang it in a drying chamber (see Episode 81    • Episode 81 - Equipment - Drying Chamber fo...   ) at about 60 deg F (15 deg C) and about 75% humidity until it loses 30% of its weight. This will take 2-3 weeks. Before hanging, it is a good idea to spray with Bactofirm 600, which promotes growth of a beneficial white surface mold the helps suppress green or black bad mold. Check during the drying process, and it you get green mold dab with vinegar to kill it. The important thing is to get it very early, before it spreads and gets below the casing into the meat. If you get black mold I am afraid you need to toss the contaminated piece, but don’t let that discourage you from trying again. Hint: don’t be faked out by hard black spots below the casing; this is likely peppercorn, fennel seed, or other ingredient.

Once you achieve the final weight, it is done. We typically do get some green mold during the process, and this time was no different. We killed it with vinegar was it appeared, and ultimately the white mold won. You can leave the white mold on (it is harmless) or remove it with some wine. The sausage should not look or smell bad when you cut into it. If it passes this test, give it a little taste. If it tastes good, you won!

Sure, the process can be challenging, but the satisfaction of creating your own artisanal sausage can’t be beat.