Zemun, Serbia

Stepping off the bus In Zemun, the vibes immediately felt different. The bustling energy of the capital Belgrade suddenly softened into a more serene rhythm in Zemun. Our day trip to Zemun began at its picturesque Quay, a 3km promenade stretching along the river all the way to New Belgrade.

Zemun, with its distinct Austro-Hungarian character, felt different from Belgrade proper. Once a standalone town, it was incorporated into greater Belgrade in the 1930s, yet it proudly retains its unique identity. As we strolled along the quay, past inviting cafes and restaurants offering typical Serbian delights, we could almost hear echoes of its past as a border town of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Just across the Danube River, Belgrade was then part of the Ottoman Empire. This rich history is palpable in Zemun’s architecture, a delightful contrast to the more Brutalist styles found in parts of New Belgrade.

The true stars of the Zemun Quay, however, are its graceful mute swans. These elegant creatures, with their white feathers and serene presence, are a beloved symbol of the area. Semi-wild yet accustomed to human company, they glide effortlessly on the water, accepting offerings of corn and grains from locals and visitors alike. It was a charming sight, made even more interesting by the surprising presence of many Chinese tourists, which we understand is due to word of mouth on Chinese social media.

We then made our way to Gardoš Tower which is perched atop Gardoš Hill. Reaching the Millennium Tower, as Gardoš Tower is also known, was a rewarding endeavor. Built in 1896 to commemorate a millennium of Hungarian settlement, it stands as a proud testament to Zemun's diverse heritage. The spiral staircase inside led to a breathtaking 360-degree panoramic view. From this vantage point, the Danube flowed silently, Zemun's rooftops clustered below, and in the distance, the sprawling Belgrade skyline shimmered. It was quite a sight to behold the mighty Danube, the lifeblood of Serbia, which flows for 600 kilometers through the country before reaching the Black Sea.

Our adventure continued to Great War Island, a protected nature reserve nestled at the confluence of the Danube and Sava Rivers. Accessing it via a pontoon bridge, temporarily installed by the military during each summer, felt like stepping into another world. The island's name itself hints at its storied past, having served as a strategic military outpost for centuries. Today, it's a haven for wildlife, home to diverse bird species and even wild boars. While we initially wanted to explore the many hiking trails on the island, a cautionary sign about the wild boars changed our minds. We later learned that there are an estimated 35 wild boars living on the island !

As we waited for the bus back to our Airbnb in the Vracar district of Belgrade, we reflected on our time here. Zemun is much more than just another district of Belgrade, especially with its rich history as a standalone town separate from Belgrade. The serene presence of the swans, the echoes of empires past, and the panoramic views from Gardoš Tower all contributed to a truly lovely and memorable experience.



#slowtravel #europetravel #zemun #belgrade #serbiatravel