1922s German Japanning Recipes

Disclaimer. DONT HEAT GLASS! Its Dangerous! Only heat glass, that is capable of high temperatures.

Note: When heating asphaltum, it gets very liquid, so if you add terpuntine keep in mind that if it is cooled down it will have the right consistency. No need to add more at this point.

a) fine japan lacque
16kg linseed oil
2kg Paris Blue
12kg Bernstein Rosin and Asphaltum
45kg Terpentin

b) Oven Japan lacque
30kg Asphaltum
20kg Linseed varnish
10kg Linseed oil
40kg Terpuntine

c) air driying lacque
35kg Ashapltum
7,5kg Angolacopal or Rosin and Dammar
5kg Linseed Oil standing

my modified version of c) because it was too thick:

3,5g Asphaltum
0,75g Dammar
0,5g linseed oil standing
8g Terpuntine

it cures pretty fast, compared to the wax ones. One day and its touchable. I guess the resins are the reason for the faster hardness.

d) dip paint (fast drying)
28kg Asphaltum
7kg Angolacopal
5kg linseed oil standing
60kg Terpuntine

e) wax recipe (top coat)
original:
200 parts asphaltum
200 parts beewax
200 parts Rosin Colophony
1000 parts Terpuntine

my modified version because this was very thin stuff:

5,5g Asphaltum
5,5g Wax
5,5g Rosin
17g Terpuntine / 15g for thicker liquid

it neeeds more time to cure. I guess it needs at least 3 times longer to cure.
Description
The asphaltum , hard resins and oil will get melted in a boiler until its a nice creamy mass. maybe add driers. Then let it cool abit and add tzhe terpuntine.
To get the basic paint darker and more covering you have to add 2 to 3% gas black or lamp black right before you add the terpuntine. To tone down the top coats you add a very little amount of bold blue. You get a great hardness when you use hard resins like bernstein colophony, Angolacopal or kauricopal. More elasticity you get by adding oils like linseed oil. The best Lacques are the oven drying ones and the air drying ones are more poor Lacques.