Climbing Mexico's Pico de Orizaba

We climbed Mexico's Pico de Orizaba in mid-December, 2023, and had absolutely perfect conditions. Orizaba is the highest volcano in North America and the highest point in Mexico at 18,491 feet (5,636 meters). It presents a lot of challenges, notably the high elevation, and steep ascent and descent, as well as the glacier and snow throughout the upper-half of the volcano.

Having said that, it is just a hike and the only gear you need besides layers for cold weather is crampons, mountaineering boots, a helmet (due to potential rockfall near the labyrinth), and an ice axe--and experience in similar terrain. Crevasses are essentially non-existent. Many groups choose to rope up, but it is not necessary and we did not as the snow was very stable and the slope angle on the glacier does not exceed 45 degrees and is mostly less than that.

We chose to not use a guide, but many guiding services are available. We did, however, hire a driver through Orizaba Mountain Guides and they were kind enough to allow us to camp at their campsite (which includes functioning toilets) and provide us with meals. I cannot recommend OMG enough--they were first-class in everything they did, including our transportation to and from Mexico City and to Iztaccíhuatl for our acclimatizing hike.

Route finding is not difficult, though there are some options that are more direct and steep vs. longer and less-steep. For the most part, following existing tracks in the snow works well, but always have knowledge of the route and a GPX map of the route is helpful, especially because you will be hiking the majority of it in the dark.

I don't think the conditions could have been better for us. It had snowed a little several days before, which provided good, stable snow instead of bullet-proof ice from a lack of snow or postholing from recent snow. The weather was excellent--certainly chilly in the dark, but quite warm as soon as the sun came up, low wind, and clear skies.

This is absolutely one of my favorite mountains.