Boost Leak Testing 101: Building the tool.

If your intake isn't sealed up and completely air-tight, then your turbo is working harder to produce fewer results. This is a tool used to verify the integrity of the intake, and to find trouble spots that need attention.

When your turbo is busting its fins to compress air, why not make all that air go where it belongs... with more fuel... to make more boom.

This version of the tester with clamp-style tire valve stems in the cap is ideal because after you have the intake charge (from an unregulated source), the schrader valve allows you to disconnect the air hose you're charging it (silencing the hiss of it) so you can hear where small pesky leaks might be hiding. Testers without the clamp valve are a waste of time.

The parts list is available here:
http://www.honda-acura.net/forums/do-...

Boost leaks can cause idle problems, misfires, backfiires, squeaks, quacks, honks, or even seem like nothing at all is wrong except your time slip is a second off at the track. Everywhere one part of anything bolts to another on the intake, it's an opportunity for boost leaks. I've blown intercoolers apart. Not the couplers, the end tanks. Ever wondered what PSI the wastegate actuator's really opening at from standing over it in the engine bay?

Build this tool.

Until you've verified this on your equipment, you have no idea.... Every car I've ever tested has boost-leaked out the Yen-Yang.