A FERRY TO ISLAY (AND BACK!) WITH CALMAC - KENNACRAIG/PORT ASKAIG/PORT CHARLOTTE

Set sail to Islay - the journey (on a sunny day) is fabulous, offering views of Jura, Gigha, the Mull of Kintyre, the peaks of Arran and even the coast of Northern Ireland.

The Calmac ferry to Islay leaves from the mainland terminal of Kennacraig, near the popular village of Tarbert on the Kintyre peninsula. There are currently major construction works to prepare for two new vessels to complement the MV Finlaggan, which you’ll see later in the film. Both these works and the ships themselves are long overdue and the island has had to endure an inadequate and unreliable service in recent years. But hope is on the horizon. The first new vessel MV Isle of Islay has finally launched from the shipyard in Turkey and should be in operation by late 2024. On our outbound journey this evening we are onboard MV Hebridean Isles, a Calmac ferry which is nearly 40 years old and can only take around 60 cars. By contrast each new vessel will take 100 cars and 450 passengers. Our ageing ship heads out into west Loch Tarbert through the showers and then on into the darkness and a strong headwind.

Two hours later and we arrive at tiny Port Askaig, a historic harbour on the east coast of the island that consists of little more than a hotel and a few cottages.

There is so much to see on Islay whether or not you like a dram of the island’s fine malt whisky. Check out the essential guide on this channel.

The ferry leaves from Port Ellen in the south of the island, a wonderfully picturesque village which lies just a short distance from the distilleries at Laphraoig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg. Port Ellen’s own distillery has just reopened after 40 years out of service. The other distinctive building in the bay is the square lighthouse tower constructed in 1832 by the Laird of Islay in memory of his wife, Lady Ellinor Campbell who tragically died at the age of 36 and after whom Port Ellen takes its name.

MV Finlaggan provides a totally different experience to the Hebridean Isles, far more space, more facilities and a far better restaurant. Breakfast is always better on a calm sea.

Midway through the voyage To the port side we have the isle of Jura and to the starboard side - in the foreground the Isle of Gigha, the middle ground , Kintyre and in the background the snowbound peaks of the Isle of Arran. Also to our port side, the MV Hebridean Isles on its way to Port Ellen.

We are now entering the more sheltered waters of the 15 km long West Loch Tarbert, a sea loch that almost severs the Kintyre peninsula in half. I’ve always thought that as an island Kintyre would have attracted far more visitors. Car ferries to Islay commenced in the 1960s with the company Western Ferries. In those days of far more limited traffic they also used to call in on Gigha and Jura. Calmac took over the Kennacraig terminal in 1978. by late 2024 the terminal will hopefully be fit for the 21st century..

Filmed March 2024
Jonathan Wheeler
‪@eyescotland‬
(Also check out my sister channel Travel Obscurer)
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