Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Day 3 (Chikatsuyu to Hongu) Sept. 3, 2025

Today marked the most challenging section of our pilgrimage: a 24 km trek from Chikatsuyu to Hongu, featuring a daunting 1,450 m of elevation gain. Though we could have taken a bus to shorten the route, we committed to the full challenge. Adding to the pressure, we had to reach Hongu before the 4:40 PM last bus departure to Shimo-Yunomine, or face an expensive taxi ride or walk an extra 8.3 km to the Yunominesou Ryokan that Oku Japan had booked for us. After a quick exploration of the beautiful surroundings and breakfast, our host at Minshuku Chikatsuyu dropped us off at the Kumano Kodo trailhead around 7:20 AM. We immediately plunged into a lush green forest, lined with towering cedar, cypress, and pine. Midway through the hike, we briefly walked with a group of youth from China we'd met the day before, but our tight schedule forced us to move ahead while they rested. We were hiking through a watershed basin, evidenced by the numerous streams, dams, and pockets of mossy forest we encountered. When we reached the village of Fushiogami, the last stop before Hongu, it started to rain, prompting us to put on our rain jackets. Fortunately, the rain did not last, but then Yus ran out of drinking water. With no one home at the houses we passed, we were lucky to spot a vending machine and quickly grabbed some soda and water. It was here that we met Yu Mei, a young woman from Taiwan. She approached us, explaining she was hiking alone and was afraid of bears, and we were more than happy to have her tag along. Together, we continued toward Hongu, climbing up to the Oyunohara Viewpoint. We gazed down upon the massive Torii gate of Hongu, a striking landmark that was miniaturized by distance, framed by the winding Kumano River and the surrounding mountain range. From there, it was mostly downhill to the Kumano Hongu Grand Shrine. It was already 4:20 PM when we reached the shrine. After a few quick photos, we rushed to the bus stop. Our new friend, Yu Mei, continued onward to Oyunohara, the original site of the shrine and location of the largest Torii gate in the world—a sight we plan to visit ourselves tomorrow when we have more time. Upon arriving at our hotel, my first priority wasn't to rest but to ask for shoe glue. The midsole of my trail running shoes had started to separate. Thankfully, the ryokan had some. I am profoundly grateful for a safe hike and for the unexpected friends we made along the way.

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