Did I Start TOO Early? Why I Planted Spring Crops In December, Issues I'm Having & a Few Tricks

It's the last week of December, and I'm starting my spring seeds already. Should you get started this early too? Things to watch out for and reasons why you might want to try it.

0:20 Intro
1:12 Why It Can Be A Good Idea
2:16 Potential Issues
3:28 How To Fix It
3:54 Grow Light Tips
5:49 Use A Fan
7:43 Bottom Watering & Dampening Off
9:31 Recap

Our urban farm is on a relatively small lot, and our greenhouse is about 10x16 which is small for a seed production company. We recently acquired a 5-acre farm in Ramona which means I have to use my space more intentionally than ever before.

I have decided to start earlier than ever for two main reasons:

-I can stagger them out of the greenhouse to keep both facilities moving forward
-I had some extra time around the holidays so I might as well get my hands dirty

WHY STARTING THIS EARLY IS A GOOD IDEA
Let's start off with the positive side of things.

We are starting our warm season crops 1-2 months earlier than normal, and we'll continue to sow seeds over the next few months like we normally would. Because we're in zone 10, this is doable. You want to check in on your area and frost dates to make sure your plants will survive.

For example, I started these tomato plants in mid-December, and this tray of Portuguese Kale is at the top of my list for things I want to get in the ground. Not everything is going perfectly, though.

If you have a limited seed starting space, starting a little early might be for you. It's certainty doable, but there are some issues to keep an eye out for.

WHY IT ISN'T A GOOD IDEA
The Winter solstice was December 21. While days are getting longer now, it's only a minute or two per day so the days are very short. That means minimal sun for my plants. As you know, that leads to leggy, spindly plants. Some are strong enough, but most of them are reaching for sunlight.

It's not the end of the world, and there are some things you can do to help out your plants. First, consider if they're getting as much sunlight as possible. Alternatively, you can use something like a grow light. It's not my go-to, but I am using it here.

The seedlings here are looking stronger than the first batch. I have the light just barely above them, and that's one of the keys when using a setup like this. A distant light source will reinforce leggy growth, and you want them to fill out a little bit instead.

On the other hand, it's time for me to raise up the grow light an inch or two. Some of the faster growers have topped out and are getting burnt tips as a result of being too close to the light. Be sure to keep about half an inch of a gap.

Another thing you can do is bring in a fan. You might use one in your greenhouse during the summer to cool things off, but you can also put that fun to use in the winter! By moving the stem of the plant back and forth, you'll increase the strength of your plant.

The airflow also helps prevent fungal issues. It will also reduce moisture levels, so make sure your soil isn't getting dried out. I prefer to bottom water, but you can still overdo it. Keep an eye out for green on the surface of your soil. If you do notice that, spread some vermiculite across the surface.

When you pot up your plants, you can also bury a little bit of the main stem. By putting more of the plant under the surface of the soil, you're undoing some of that legginess.

Of course, I could wait four or six weeks and avoid some of this extra work. With our limited greenhouse space, though, we want to make sure that we're able to get plants in the ground for as much of the year as it makes sense to at both properties. We're going from about half an acre to five, so that's ten times the space! By getting a jump on succession planting, we're able to maximize all of our time and resources.

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