HARDEST ROUTE AT AUSTRALIA'S HARDEST CLIFF - New Elphinstone mega project
Автор: Tom O'Halloran
Загружено: 2021-09-19
Просмотров: 11198
I've been looking at this unexplored section of cliff for nearly 10 years. Last year (2020) I finally decided to head out and bolt the big roof! It took a few days to get the route ready to be climbed on, but I never really had a chance to put the pieces together. The Olympics prep took over life and it lay waiting for another 12 months. Now the time is here and I'm really psyched to start putting links in.
Last year I climbed the project from the ground to an anchor under the roof (Piggy Picklet anchor). I called it Baby Wombat's Week and it goes at about 31/8b. From the anchor there is a V7/8 section to get you into the roof, where the real business begins! The roof section could around V13 and totally radical climbing, grooving around in the crack features. After the roof secrtion you turn the lip and climb a few body lengths of easy terrain to get the the top roof and headwall. This is another hard section with a tough boulder out the roof into a sustained headwall section to get you to the anchor of Schweinebaumeln.
I cannot wait to put the time in on this and start linking the sections together! It's going to be all time!
Follow me on instagram @tom_ohalloran
Climbing podcast www.baffledays.com.au
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