REPAIR - CAM870 TRIGGER | AIRSOFT

REPAIR - CAM870 TRIGGER | AIRSOFT
Repair, don’t despair! After noticing that the trigger on my CAM870 AOW was rather unresponsive and difficult to pull, I decided that it was time to fix it.

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Get a new trigger group here:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01M...

Get a spare trigger here:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B06X...

Get your own spare sear here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...


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To successfully fire a shotgun, you pull the trigger, witch pushes the trigger bar forward, against the sear.
The Sears rotation releases the hammer.
The hammer will then fall on the firing pin, in turn firing the shell.
STEP 1: THE PROBLEM
So why is my trigger not working?
The problem is that the distance between the sear and the trigger bar is slightly too long, which in turn means that the sear won’t rotate far enough to release the hammer.
Thus making pew pew, hard hard.
STEP 2: DIFFERENT SOLUTIONS
The first solution is to buy a new trigger group and replace the old one.
The second way is to replace only the trigger. The downside of this is that APS don’t sell black triggers, so you have to settle for colors, like smurf-blue or TactiCute pink.
The third option, and the one I will show today, is to transplant working parts from a new trigger to my original black one.
STEP 3: DISASSEMBLY
So lets disassemble it:
Trigger spring, rear pin, trigger pin, and lastly the trigger.
For more detailed disassembly instructions, watch our cam 870 trigger group disassembly video.
STEP 4: MEASURING
So what sets them apart lengthwise?
My black original trigger’s bar is 18.2mm long.
The smurf-blue trigger bar is 18,6mm long.
Apparently, roughly half a millimeter makes a difference from no-pew to pew.
STEP 5: TESTING NEW TRIGGER
Before I tamper with the transplant, I confirm the function of the new trigger by trying it out.
Now to transplant the trigger bars.
STEP 6: REMOVING RIVETS
I start by placing the black trigger in my drill press vice, and using a 2.5mm drill bit, I remove the head of the rivet.
Next I remove the head of the rivet on the smurf blue trigger.
I can now disassemble both triggers, by removing the rivets and trigger bars.
STEP 7: TRIAL AND ERROR
Time to transplant the working trigger bars to the black trigger.
This is harder than expected.
I tried to use a regular M2 screw and nut to join the trigger bars and trigger, but that resulted in too much play in the mechanism.
Threading the hole in the trigger in M3 won't work either, since the material is simply too strong.
Therefore I decided to turn the old rivet into a makeshift nut.
STEP 8: RIVET INTO NUT
Let's get to it. I place one of the old rivets in my drill press, and make a 1.8mm hole, which I thread in 2mm’s.
This is a delicate and long process which will require a lot of patience.
Step 9: INSTALLING
I place the drilled and tapped rivet into the trigger.
Next I cut an appropriate M2 screw to length.
And then install it.
Step 10: TEST FITTING
I test fit the modified trigger into the trigger group, and make sure the screw and rivet don't interfere with other parts.
STEP 11: TEST FIRE
New and improved!
And by that, I mean… factory original… kinda… how it was supposed to be… hursomhelst