E36 LS7 SWAP PT.13 - DRIVESHAFT - HOW TO MEASURE AND BUILD YOUR OWN FOR E36 (AND OTHER PLATFORMS)

Don't want to spend an upwards of $700-$900 on an off the shelf driveshaft for your E36 (or any other swap, this video still applies - only change you'll need to make is the diff side flange adapter)? There are many driveshafts available off the shelf from various companies (Sikky for example), but you can spend half (or less) depending on your needs, and assemble in your garage! No need for driveshaft shops!
In this video I'll show you how to measure, guide on what slip yoke and flange to order (links below), install U-Joints, and show what I measured and how it fit. In my case, I measured with the T56 slip yoke (push all the way in trans until it stops, then pull it out 3/4"-1"), and OEM diff flange, then measured again with the V8 adapter diff flange - DO NOT DO THIS - order both flange and slip yoke (links below) and measure. Luckily, it only cost me 1/4" of my measurement and my driveshaft still fit with 3/4" slip yoke play.
Live axles need 3/4"-1" due to suspension travel, but IRS suspension setups can get away with 1/2" to 3/4" IN MY EXPERIENCE. IRS setups do not move like LIVE AXLES, especially in our swaps with solid engine mounts, poly diff mounts, and in some cases, poly/solid diff and/or subframe mounts. Aim for 3/4" in my opinion, the more slip yoke engagement, the less likely you'll encounter vibrations.
My driveshaft is 44", and I am using Pennsyltucky engine and trans mounts with my LS7 and T56 (fbody, stage 2). If you feel comfortable mirroring my setup, I RECOMMEND you buy a 43.75" driveshaft. This will give you plenty of slip yoke play for any minor differences in mount tolerances, if any. Again, mine is 44" because I based my measurement off of the OEM diff flange (which I found out after is non-serviceable, and, not nearly as beefy as the V8 adapter flange, which is 1310).
Any questions or comments, feel free to shoot em my way. I did this on my z32 and Genesis, and while I am not an EXPERT, I understand these concepts, but I am not above reproach!
Notes: If you step up to 2.75 diameter driveshaft, you have a minor chance of needing to clearance some spots in the trans tunnel. If you step up to a 3", you WILL have to clearance a spot on a spot on the trans tunnel, as well as once over the mounting brackets for the e-brake cables.
I elected for a 2.5" steel driveshaft (17.2lbs) because my build will be a street oriented car (car meets, occasional street race), and I will slowly get into road course. I will not be drag racing whatsoever. I have 1310 u-joints. Will be plenty for a stock LS7 with bolt ons. Steel also absorbs harmonics better than aluminum, and with soldi mounts, 95d poly diff mounts, and poly trans mounts, I am trying to keep it good comfortable for the street. OK, now here are some links:

T56 27 spline slip yoke 1310 (part number 2-3-6081X):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/265286050072

E36 V8 diff flange adapter:
https://jagsthatrun.com/products/heav...

Coleman 2.5" STEEL driveshafts:
https://www.colemanracing.com/Drivetr...

Coleman 3" ALUMINUM driveshafts:
https://www.colemanracing.com/Drivetr...

To order custom size steel, aluminum, carbon fiber driveshafts (measure/order):
https://pstds.com/shop