Finger injury FIXED in 4 minutes!! and WHAT IS IT? | Expert advice from Physiotherapist

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**credit to @sarahong98 for being my hand model. I used permeant ink, so she has FDP and FDS permanantly on her hands.

Just like how I predicted so many would fall victim to the trap of climbing way too hard, way too soon. I myself got injured on my first climb back. The classic, I felt a pull in my finger, it didn’t really hurt so I continued climbing carefully, but the next day it felt stiff.

This is a more casual video, on my own injury and how I am dealing with it, in hopes that you can relate too. I injured my ring finger or 4th phalange.
From the mechanism of injury, Im suspecting the muscle or tendons of Flexor digitorum profundus (FDP), Flexor digitorum superficialis (FDS), lumbricals or a pulley injury which from the way it feels im thinking unlikely, but let’s test them.

I want to test which one it is out of the 4 suspects.
Test for FDP, FDP runs from the proximal surface of ulnar bone and interosseous membrane, forms the muscle belly then splits into 4 tendons and attaches to the tip of the fingers. It's the only muscle that connects here. So, to test I hold the mid phalange down then flex this part up, and apply a resistance with my middle finger here. Ah! I felt the same pulling feeling right here, FDP in sus as fuck.

Second suspect, the FDS. FDS runs from medial epicondyle of humerus, coronoid process of ulna, proximal half of radius surface and attaches to sides of middle phalanges of 2 to 5. To test them we` Question them, where were you on the morning of 25th 11am?!!!! Unlikely you will get an answer so, we hold its brethren down and bend the suspect up like this and resist. Mine doesn't hurt as much as the FDP test did, so FDP is still sus.

3rd suspect, lumbricals, lumbricals run from the tendons of FDP and attach to the extensor expansion of the hand, that is these things here. The muscles flex the metacarpophalangeal joints. So to test, we stretch it like this, and then contract it at the joint it flexes. Mine doesn't hurt, but I do feel a slight discomfort, but remember it attaches to the FDP as well, which reproduced my pain.

The A2 pulley is probably the most commonly injured because it attaches straight to the bone, making it less flexible. Mine isn't a pulley injury, but normally to test for it, the best would be an ultrasound scan, otherwise, it normally hurts around here during a crimp, it swells up, tender on palpation of this area here. If you ruptured all the pulleys, you get something called a bow string.

Not a very detailed video, a quick one sharing my personal injury. Let me know if you want to see how I will be treating it.

One thing I realised is that, when my pinky is bent up here, this test on my ring finger hurts, but when my pinky is locked down, the test on my ring finger doesn't hurt. I found some research saying that in some people, the Ring finger’s FDP connects to the pinky’s FDS, therefore, when I bend my pinky up using the FDS the FDP on my ring finger is pulled further and the test on my ring finger hurts. This is for another video, stay tuned.


Don’t worry about it.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/arti...