Castile & Léon - Celebrating Holy Week with layered cod and lenten stew | At our Neighbour's Table

The Spanish town of Zamora celebrates Holy Week before Easter with numerous processions. Thousands of people parade through the old, picturesque town. As meat is taboo during this time, there are fish dishes such as Bacalao a la Tranca - layered cod - or the Lenten stew Potaje de Vigilia. There are also plenty of fortifying pastries like the crispy deep-fried Castilian 'flowers', the florones castellanos.

Rosa González lives somewhat apart from the religious hustle and bustle that comes to Zamora, in northwest Spain, in the time before Easter. As a child, she had to attend a strict nun's school, and since then she has been rather distant from the church. As an enthusiastic cook, however, Rosa knows the traditions and dishes closely associated with Holy Week. When she prepares the Lenten stew Potaje de Viligia or layered cod for her family and friends, she tries out modern variations of the traditional recipes.

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▷ 0:00 - Intro
▷ 00:31 - At our Neighbour's Table in Castile-Léon

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Rosa's friend Asun Codesal enjoys cooking just as much, but is in constant religious use during Semana Santa (Holy Week). Unlike Rosa, Asun cannot imagine Holy Week without the magnificent processions. From Maundy Thursday to Good Friday, when many thousands of believers dressed in masks and pointed hats accompany the holy figures through the city, Asun and her family can hardly think of sleeping.

Easter is a time for sweet pastries, prepared privately and in the many nunneries. Rosa and Asun try their hand at aceitadas made of eggs, flour, sugar and the olive oil that gives them their name - aceite de oliva. Animal fats have no place in the Holy Week pastry, but a strong dash of aniseed essence does. Rosa also uses a special branding iron to fry crispy florones castellanos - Castilian flowers. She serves golden honey from her own apiary with it.

On the Castilian plateau - the Meseta - it rains little. The region around the town of Zamora and the river Duero is known for wine and legumes. Chickpeas in particular are a traditional ingredient in many dishes. Since Castile has no access to the sea, cured cod is the fish of choice during the meatless Holy Week.

At our Neighbour's Table - Castile-Léon | Season 2022 - Episode 276
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