CHEMICAL PEELS | the good, the bad & my choice peel

  / drdavinlim  
More on skincare tips & tricks. Updated 3 times a week.
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This video is about chemical peels; the basics on superficial peels & how I employ them.
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AHA peels: Include glycolic, lactic, mandelic, & citric acid. One of the oldest peels, the original AHA peel was made with sour milk (lactic acid) from the days of ancient Egypt. Glycolic peels are originally derived from sugar cane, whilst citric acid peels come from citrus fruits. AHAs require neutralization. OTC creams and lotions are buffered solutions with higher pH compared to clinical grade peels.
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Use: Rejuvenation, pigmentation, melasma, milia, sun damage, sun spots
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Pregnancy safety: Safe in pregnancy, safe in lactation
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Downtime: Nil- AKA lunchtime peels


BHA peels: Salicylic acid is the sole member of the BHA or Beta hydroxy acid group. This is a self neutralising peel, with pseudo frosting that is usually short lived (less than 15-45 min).BHAs are lipophilic with better penetration into the oil-sebaceous glands cf AHA peels. My goto concentrations range from 8 to 30%.
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Uses: Acne, blackheads, congestion, some cases of post inflammatory hyperpigmentation
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Pregnancy safety: Washes, 1-2 % BHA- Salicylic acid are safe. Most specialists will not use BHAs in pregnancy
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Downtime: variable, depending on skin sensitivity & concentration of salicylic acid. Typically 12 -24 hours of redness


Retinoid Peels: Include retinoic acid & high strength retinol. My favourite formulations range from 1-5% in a good skin toned makeup base. Application time varies from 2-12 hours. I like retinoid peels due to their effects on cells, sebum (oil), reduction of c.acnes, exfoliative properties as well as their pigment reducing effects. This peel is flexible - see below.
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Use: Skin rejuvenation, skin pigmentation including melasma, freckles, sun damage, open pores, mild wrinkles, mild to moderate active acne
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Pregnancy safety: Not recommended in pregnancy due to high concentrations of vitamin A
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Downtime: Ideally delayed peeling will be expected, commencing 24 to 48 hours after application. Expect to peel for 1-4 days thereafter. In some cases makeup is hard to conceal the flakes of skin.
Duration of peel will depend on skin sensitivity, retinoid sensitivity, pre peel prep (acetone, AHA primer etc…), as well as the concentration of peel, and application time. My nurses and therapist will guide you as to the expected downtime
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I also use novel peels including Cosmelan & Dermamelan in my practice. Patient selection is critical. These peels can treat some forms of melasma as well as PIH & general pigmentation.
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Dr Davin Lim
Dermatologist, Brisbane,
Australia
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#chemicalpeels #AHAs #BHAs #retinol